the horseman...serving airag
always beautiful!
the end of Sukhbaatar's Nadaam...the rode was closed
what does that look like to you?
countryside
site placement
My Mongolian FamilyMonday, August 27, 2007
some pictures
the horseman...serving airag
always beautiful!
the end of Sukhbaatar's Nadaam...the rode was closed
what does that look like to you?
countryside
site placement
My Mongolian Family
pictures
I would put pictures up, but blogspot is not uploading anything right now.....
sorry guys...gotta wait
sorry guys...gotta wait
My first friday at work
Blog #11 Friday "work" 8-27-07
I was informed that Friday morning, my director was going to come meet me at my apartment at 10am. I thought she was going to take a look at my door, which broke (and was temporarily fixed) Thursday, but when 1030 came around and she told me to come downstairs, I realized this was not the case. I walked outside and saw the Russian jeep that had originally brought me to Arvaikheer with the backdoor open, but no sign of my director. The driver (who also drove me from UB) instructed me to get in and that Sanchir (my director) was at the delguur (corner store). Minutes later, Sanchir showed up with snacks in her hands and we drove to the children’s center to pick up two more people and two fancy bottles of vodka. At this point the only information I had was that we were going to the khudoo (countryside) to an ‘oldman’s’ camp and that Arvaikheer’s Nadaam was the next day. I confirmed that I would be back that same day and just waited to see where the day would take me. I often find myself in these types of situations, where I don’t know exactly where I am going, what I am doing, or when I will be back. This kind of thing happens a lot in Mongolia and you have to just sit back and take things for what they are. It is really the ‘show up and see what happens’ mentality that you have to adopt in order to sit and see where the day takes you. It’s funny because you know everyone around you knows what’s going on, but the language barrier and certain cultural differences create a situation where you are the only one in the dark. I actually think it’s kind of fun. Anyway, we start driving out of Arvaikheer, through the beautiful countryside and the only information I get is which road goes to khovd (another province). Eventually we come to a place where there are a bunch of cars lined up in front of a body of water and people in Dells (traditional clothing) are standing around talking. We join the line of cars and the circles of people speaking in Mongolian. I am introduced in Mongolian to a few people and then my director instructs me to stay there and wait for her. I don’t understand much of what is going on around me, but I manage to hear one man tell a young woman to come talk to me. Shortly after, I am approached by this lady, who has excellent English and she explains to me that the people around me are all social workers, the man is their boss, and there is a mini-Nadaam going on and the horses should be coming soon. She also explains that the rest camp that’s visible in the distance is celebrating their five year anniversary today. I finally found out what was going on, which was refreshing. I still don’t know what to expect, but I do know that I am in for a day of Mongolian and awkward situations…this, I can prepare for. She also explains to me that the horses racing at the moment are two years old and it is good luck for the men to see their dust and this is the reason half the people are leaving…they’ll be back. A little while later, we can see the horses in the distance and everyone lines up to watch them finish the race. The children riding the horses are very young and the horses look exhausted. After the race, we chase down the winning horse and feel his sweat for good luck. Everyone piles into the cars and heads for the oldman’s camp, as my director puts it. We arrive and drink a little airag and vodka (I don’t drink the vodka), sit in a room and listen to a million people speak and give gifts to the owner of the camp, followed by some awesome performances. It has been relatively consistant in my time here that the people are extremely talented, but nobody has mastered the sound system. My favorite performance is always the guy playing the morenhor (sp?...mongolian instrument) and throat singing. Mongolian throat singing is absolutely mesmerizing and awesome to hear. There was also a female singer and a Korean guy with an awesome voice….mostly drowned out by the fuzzy background music. During all the speaking, all I could think about was lunch. By this time of the day, I was starving and wondering if we were going to be fed or if the snacks we brought would be the days rations. After the performances, I was informed that we were going to drink more airag. We went into one of the gers and sat around playing the Mongolian finger game to see who has to drink. We ended up drinking a lot of airag before we left the ger. Everyone was impressed that I knew the finger game and that I drank the airag. I also got a chance to look at a flyer for the camp and finally got a real idea of what kind of place this was. The pamphlet had English and Mongolian and explained that the camp was a place for physical health and rejuvenation. They offered mud and spa treatments and always had doctors on hand. There was a picture of a bunch of old people wearing traditional Dells, but looked like they were out for a jog….an interesting site. After drinking the airag was lunch time! Sweet! For the first time since I’ve been to Mongolia, the airag made my head feel a little funny. Airag is a Mongolian milk alcohol that is not very potent, but after not having much to eat and drinking a lot of it, I felt it’s effects. Many people go through their entire stay in Mongolia without feeling anything from airag other than the guaranteed stomach ramifications. We went to the room where the speaking had been, but was now filled with tables, chairs, and the delicious smell of Mongolian food. We filled up on soup, soyvan (Mongolian noodle and meat plate), and soote tze (Mongolian milk tea). After lunch everyone hung around for a while. My director and I started talking to this old couple who she explained the woman as a Mongolian hero. What she meant by that, I’m not so sure, and it wasn’t the right time to ask. We started walking around the camp, and my director had to deal with the aftermath of drinking airag, which means many trips to the outhouse. I started talking to the older man and we strolled around the camp, speaking in Mongolian. Throughout the day, I had been trying to use as much of the Mongolian, that I hadn’t used over the past few weeks, as I could remember. I started up many awkward conversations, that I always started with…what’s your name? This man took a liking to my sorry attempt at Mongolian and as we talked to the other people at the camp, he told everyone that I was American and that I was speaking Mongolian. Eventually we met up with his wife and my director. They invited me to their house and disappeared into one of the gers to rest. My director disappeared for a while; I assume to smoke a cigarette, and I was left with one lady that I knew and a few people I had just met. We spoke in my limited Mongolian and then I got up to watch the wrestling. I was excited to see the wrestling because I hadn’t been able to see Sukhbaatar’s Nadaam and was curious what it was like. After the wrestling my director found me and asked if I wanted to leave. I told her I was indifferent and she expressed that she wanted to go home. We rounded up our car load and had dinner and (they drank) vodka. Some of the people we were drinking and eating with tried to get me to take a shot of vodka, but those who know me know that I NEVER take shots. This was no exception. I was surprised that over the course of the day, I had seen 2 bottles of vodka drank and they were both the worst kind. By this time, I had realized the fancy bottles that I had seen before were going to be gifts. After dinner we went to the car and my director went to give the gifts. She had us waiting for a long time, which was annoying, but I was thankful because I was dealing with the aftershock of the airag. Finally, she showed up again. We got in the car, she looks at me and in a completely serious tone, she says "I am drunk"… I figured. We head back to Arvaikheer and my mind wanders. I stare out the window into the beautiful scenery of the Mongolian countryside. The clouds and sky are amazing shades of pink and purple, accented above the dark purple mountains. I sit there feeling the bumps of the rode, my mind piling one thought on top of another. The thoughts are like a bubble getting bigger and bigger, until it bursts and vanishes into thin air. I am snapped back to the Russian jeep when my director starts coughing and the jeep stops. At this point, I have no idea how much she had to drink and am afraid she is going to throw up. I see her reach for a beer and I quickly grab my water and hand it to her. She doesn’t accept and instead takes a sip of beer and hands it to the old man in the front. The driver is a number of feet away, relieving himself and she goes, I assume, to do the same. The driver comes back and opens a beer and hands it to me; I hand it to Puje (a lady I work with). He then opens another beer and hands it to me, I try to refuse, but he explains that it’s open and he’s driving and can not drink it. As a non-beer drinker, I have been testing out different types of beer since I got to Mongolia and am slightly curious what this one tastes like. I take a few sips, but am too full to drink much of it and try to pass it off to Puje after she downs hers. We put the cap back on, everyone piles back in the jeep and we continue on our way. At this point, I am stuck in a state of thought and I look back out the window thinking about the crazy day I have had and the, always amazing, Mongolian sky. We arrive in Arvaikheer, I spend a couple moments in my apartment, and meet up with some of my Peace Corps friends for a mellow night of English speaking. The day was exciting, fun, tiring, awkward, and full of experiences. At this point it is nice to sit down, drink tea, and my mind is calm.
I was informed that Friday morning, my director was going to come meet me at my apartment at 10am. I thought she was going to take a look at my door, which broke (and was temporarily fixed) Thursday, but when 1030 came around and she told me to come downstairs, I realized this was not the case. I walked outside and saw the Russian jeep that had originally brought me to Arvaikheer with the backdoor open, but no sign of my director. The driver (who also drove me from UB) instructed me to get in and that Sanchir (my director) was at the delguur (corner store). Minutes later, Sanchir showed up with snacks in her hands and we drove to the children’s center to pick up two more people and two fancy bottles of vodka. At this point the only information I had was that we were going to the khudoo (countryside) to an ‘oldman’s’ camp and that Arvaikheer’s Nadaam was the next day. I confirmed that I would be back that same day and just waited to see where the day would take me. I often find myself in these types of situations, where I don’t know exactly where I am going, what I am doing, or when I will be back. This kind of thing happens a lot in Mongolia and you have to just sit back and take things for what they are. It is really the ‘show up and see what happens’ mentality that you have to adopt in order to sit and see where the day takes you. It’s funny because you know everyone around you knows what’s going on, but the language barrier and certain cultural differences create a situation where you are the only one in the dark. I actually think it’s kind of fun. Anyway, we start driving out of Arvaikheer, through the beautiful countryside and the only information I get is which road goes to khovd (another province). Eventually we come to a place where there are a bunch of cars lined up in front of a body of water and people in Dells (traditional clothing) are standing around talking. We join the line of cars and the circles of people speaking in Mongolian. I am introduced in Mongolian to a few people and then my director instructs me to stay there and wait for her. I don’t understand much of what is going on around me, but I manage to hear one man tell a young woman to come talk to me. Shortly after, I am approached by this lady, who has excellent English and she explains to me that the people around me are all social workers, the man is their boss, and there is a mini-Nadaam going on and the horses should be coming soon. She also explains that the rest camp that’s visible in the distance is celebrating their five year anniversary today. I finally found out what was going on, which was refreshing. I still don’t know what to expect, but I do know that I am in for a day of Mongolian and awkward situations…this, I can prepare for. She also explains to me that the horses racing at the moment are two years old and it is good luck for the men to see their dust and this is the reason half the people are leaving…they’ll be back. A little while later, we can see the horses in the distance and everyone lines up to watch them finish the race. The children riding the horses are very young and the horses look exhausted. After the race, we chase down the winning horse and feel his sweat for good luck. Everyone piles into the cars and heads for the oldman’s camp, as my director puts it. We arrive and drink a little airag and vodka (I don’t drink the vodka), sit in a room and listen to a million people speak and give gifts to the owner of the camp, followed by some awesome performances. It has been relatively consistant in my time here that the people are extremely talented, but nobody has mastered the sound system. My favorite performance is always the guy playing the morenhor (sp?...mongolian instrument) and throat singing. Mongolian throat singing is absolutely mesmerizing and awesome to hear. There was also a female singer and a Korean guy with an awesome voice….mostly drowned out by the fuzzy background music. During all the speaking, all I could think about was lunch. By this time of the day, I was starving and wondering if we were going to be fed or if the snacks we brought would be the days rations. After the performances, I was informed that we were going to drink more airag. We went into one of the gers and sat around playing the Mongolian finger game to see who has to drink. We ended up drinking a lot of airag before we left the ger. Everyone was impressed that I knew the finger game and that I drank the airag. I also got a chance to look at a flyer for the camp and finally got a real idea of what kind of place this was. The pamphlet had English and Mongolian and explained that the camp was a place for physical health and rejuvenation. They offered mud and spa treatments and always had doctors on hand. There was a picture of a bunch of old people wearing traditional Dells, but looked like they were out for a jog….an interesting site. After drinking the airag was lunch time! Sweet! For the first time since I’ve been to Mongolia, the airag made my head feel a little funny. Airag is a Mongolian milk alcohol that is not very potent, but after not having much to eat and drinking a lot of it, I felt it’s effects. Many people go through their entire stay in Mongolia without feeling anything from airag other than the guaranteed stomach ramifications. We went to the room where the speaking had been, but was now filled with tables, chairs, and the delicious smell of Mongolian food. We filled up on soup, soyvan (Mongolian noodle and meat plate), and soote tze (Mongolian milk tea). After lunch everyone hung around for a while. My director and I started talking to this old couple who she explained the woman as a Mongolian hero. What she meant by that, I’m not so sure, and it wasn’t the right time to ask. We started walking around the camp, and my director had to deal with the aftermath of drinking airag, which means many trips to the outhouse. I started talking to the older man and we strolled around the camp, speaking in Mongolian. Throughout the day, I had been trying to use as much of the Mongolian, that I hadn’t used over the past few weeks, as I could remember. I started up many awkward conversations, that I always started with…what’s your name? This man took a liking to my sorry attempt at Mongolian and as we talked to the other people at the camp, he told everyone that I was American and that I was speaking Mongolian. Eventually we met up with his wife and my director. They invited me to their house and disappeared into one of the gers to rest. My director disappeared for a while; I assume to smoke a cigarette, and I was left with one lady that I knew and a few people I had just met. We spoke in my limited Mongolian and then I got up to watch the wrestling. I was excited to see the wrestling because I hadn’t been able to see Sukhbaatar’s Nadaam and was curious what it was like. After the wrestling my director found me and asked if I wanted to leave. I told her I was indifferent and she expressed that she wanted to go home. We rounded up our car load and had dinner and (they drank) vodka. Some of the people we were drinking and eating with tried to get me to take a shot of vodka, but those who know me know that I NEVER take shots. This was no exception. I was surprised that over the course of the day, I had seen 2 bottles of vodka drank and they were both the worst kind. By this time, I had realized the fancy bottles that I had seen before were going to be gifts. After dinner we went to the car and my director went to give the gifts. She had us waiting for a long time, which was annoying, but I was thankful because I was dealing with the aftershock of the airag. Finally, she showed up again. We got in the car, she looks at me and in a completely serious tone, she says "I am drunk"… I figured. We head back to Arvaikheer and my mind wanders. I stare out the window into the beautiful scenery of the Mongolian countryside. The clouds and sky are amazing shades of pink and purple, accented above the dark purple mountains. I sit there feeling the bumps of the rode, my mind piling one thought on top of another. The thoughts are like a bubble getting bigger and bigger, until it bursts and vanishes into thin air. I am snapped back to the Russian jeep when my director starts coughing and the jeep stops. At this point, I have no idea how much she had to drink and am afraid she is going to throw up. I see her reach for a beer and I quickly grab my water and hand it to her. She doesn’t accept and instead takes a sip of beer and hands it to the old man in the front. The driver is a number of feet away, relieving himself and she goes, I assume, to do the same. The driver comes back and opens a beer and hands it to me; I hand it to Puje (a lady I work with). He then opens another beer and hands it to me, I try to refuse, but he explains that it’s open and he’s driving and can not drink it. As a non-beer drinker, I have been testing out different types of beer since I got to Mongolia and am slightly curious what this one tastes like. I take a few sips, but am too full to drink much of it and try to pass it off to Puje after she downs hers. We put the cap back on, everyone piles back in the jeep and we continue on our way. At this point, I am stuck in a state of thought and I look back out the window thinking about the crazy day I have had and the, always amazing, Mongolian sky. We arrive in Arvaikheer, I spend a couple moments in my apartment, and meet up with some of my Peace Corps friends for a mellow night of English speaking. The day was exciting, fun, tiring, awkward, and full of experiences. At this point it is nice to sit down, drink tea, and my mind is calm.
a complete update
Blog 10 8-22-07
It’s been a while since I really sat down and wrote anything about life in Mongolia. I will make an attempt right now, but I make no promises. I feel like I have been incredibly busy for the past month or so.
Saying goodbye:
Our last few days in Sukhbaatar were filled with packing and saying goodbye to our first Mongolian friends. It was actually sadder than I expected it to be. On my last night in Sukhbaatar, my friend and I cooked food for his family. They are really some of the sweetest people I’ve met. I then went to my house where my Doo (Mongolian for younger sibling), Unroe, had cooked amazing food. My Ech (Mongolian mom) and my Av (Mongolian dad) gave me a Dell (Mongolian traditional clothing) and some matching Jewelry. My Doo gave me a photo album with a picture of her and her little brother in it. After dinner, we played Rummicub, which is always a good time. I didn’t expect to feel anything when leaving, but I was actually a little sad to leave my Sukhbaatar life. After hanging out with my family for a little while I went over to my friends house and took a million pictures with her family and two other families. These people were so nice and fun to be around in Sukhbaatar and it was actually kind of sad to say goodbye. It’s kinda a funny connection that goes on between the Americans and these people. They are our first real impression of Mongolia, and they really made a good one. Its funny because there are people that I can’t even remember their name, but when I go visit Sukhbaatar I’ll definitely stop by to say Hi.
Final Darkhan Days:
The last post I wrote was while I was in Darkhan. I don’t remember what I wrote, so sorry if I’m repeating myself. I know I’m skipping around a little, but I haven’t really sat down and taken the time to really write in a while. I know I mentioned about site placements. This was a very interesting experience, but what was more interesting was observing the interactions for the rest of the time our group was together. We knew we were all going to different places soon, and you almost value your time together that much more. The knowledge that you are about to begin something that is going to be exciting and difficult, and is something you have been looking forward to for such a long time; and you are all going to go through it, just not in the same place. In Darkhan, we had family appreciation day, which was a blast. All the host families came to Darkhan from their respective towns to see their host children/brothers/sisters for one last time before they free us to explore Mongolia on our own. I got lost on my way to the gym for the big day…surprise, surprise. That was my second time getting lost in Darkhan, and now I really don’t have to ever go back there again, if I don’t want to. Anyway, once I got there, it was a really nice day. All the Americans were wearing our Dells that had been given to us by our families. We also performed cultural performances that we had learned at our training sites. The Mongolians loved seeing us ‘be mongolian’. To wrap up the day, there was an intense volleyball tournament, delicious food, and of course, a zillion pictures. It was nice to have one last day with the families. Who knows when we will see them next.
Ulaanbataar:
Following Darkhan we loaded onto a large bus and a little bus to head to UB, the capital of Mongolia. This was the same set up we had on the way to Darkhan at the beginning and was almost a way of finishing our training the way we started. Halfway through the trip the little bus had some tire trouble. The story is that the spare tire fell off and hit the wheel, breaking the tire. Some do not believe this because the big bus was behind and nobody saw a flying tire. It could just be that the driver didn’t have a spare tire…it will always be a mystery. Everyone from the smaller bus piled into the bigger bus and we continued on our way. UB days were full of people running us all over the place, showing us this and that. Really, it’s all a blur. I’m really not good with directions and it easy to get lost in UB, so I made sure not to go anywhere by myself. There were a lot of M17s (M17=Mongolia, group #17, I am M18) in UB and it was a nice time to get to know the other Peace Corps volunteers and a chance to meet people who have been at our sites for a year now. UB has ‘real’ bars and different kinds of food, so it was exciting to experience these things, knowing we won’t get the chance for a while. I enjoyed Mexican food and chicken wings, among other foods while I was there. We swore in on August 18, 2007 and became official Peace Corps volunteers. (Amy’s birthday!) UB was a tiring week because we had our schedules packed for us, we wanted to buy things to get ready for site, and to say goodbye to our friends all at the same time. I felt somewhat in a daze by all the activity going on around and within me. We met our directors and got to discuss our jobs for the first time. Also, I GOT A PHONE! Hurray! I’ll admit there were really nice things about not having a phone, but there are a lot of nice things about having one too. If you want the number and want to call me, just ask!
Saying Goodbye:
Finally, it came time to say goodbye to the people we have spent the past three months with. The goodbyes were tainted with excitement and nervousness for what was to come…
Getting to Site:
Of course, it had to rain. I was picked up in a Taxi around 930 am. We barely fit all my stuff in to the car and drove to another spot, where we met up with our driver. My director and I went into someone’s apartment while they repacked all my things into a Russian Jeep. Amazingly, it all fit in the back so we could fit everyone that was coming with us. I was exauhsted from the past few weeks and once in the Jeep, I fell asleep. I woke up to my director asking if I wanted to buy any food for the trip. We were still in UB! I fell back asleep. I woke up to us getting gas….still in UB! I fell asleep. I woke up to my phone….a text message from my friend asking how the ride was going. I looked around…WE WERE STILL IN UB! I fell asleep. I woke up to the screeching sound of the horn. I looked around and saw the amazing Mongolian scenery and a herd of cows in the middle of the rode. This felt better. Through the long ride, I was woken by this horn a number of times…horses, goats, sheep, and cows. I fell back asleep. I woke to the crying and gurgling of the adorable little baby sitting on his mother next to me. He was throwing up all over her. We stopped in the middle of nowhere for a bathroom break and so she could clean up. By ‘the middle of nowhere’….this is really what I mean. It was beautiful, the rain had cleared, the clouds were like a painting, the mountains in the distance and the wide open spaces created a beautiful scene. I just stood and stared at the beauty around me while everyone else scattered and squatted. We piled back in the Jeep and I fell asleep. We stopped a few times because the engine would overheat, and the driver would get out, walk to the river, scoop some water, poor it and we were on our way. We ate lunch in a little town and continued on our way in the same manner. The rode was bumpy, but I kept falling asleep anyway. We finally arrived in Arvaikheer, Ovorkhungai at about midnight and made a group effort to pile all my things into my new apartment. My director’s mother had made me a bucket of Hosher (Mongolian food) and had left me a jar of pickles, a few spices, 2 sprites, and a bucket full of Airag (Mongolian Milk alcohol). Everyone came in for some airag and then were on their way. I thought about setting up my place because I had gotten a lot of sleep throughout the day….instead I rolled out my Alaskan sleeping bag (the best sleeping bag I’ve ever seen…thanks to Peace Corps) and passed out.
My apartment:
My apartment is pretty big. I’d say it’s about the size of the apartment I grew up in, but it’s all to myself. I had been a little nervous about living by myself, but so far it’s going well. I have a kitchen, a balcony that is closed in with windows, a toilet room, and separated bathtub/sink room. I have a bedroom and a huge extra room, that I have made my art/fun room. This is where I will paint, write, and do anything else that’s not sleeping or reading. I still need to buy a ton of things for my apartment, but I will soon. I have a 1 burner stove, a fire stove, a bed, a couple little desk/storage spots. The best part about my apartment is that it is right near the main road and the square, which means it is really easy to find!
Living by myself:
I was really nervous about how I’d like living by myself. So far, I’m really enjoying it. This could just be because I really haven’t had much "alone time" in….well, a really long time. I am pretty good at keeping myself busy, and am not worried about getting lonely. I have been keeping in good contact with some of my friends who are far away. The other night some of the M17s (that’s the group who came last year, I am M18) were in town at one of the other volunteer’s apartments, so I went over there to hang out and they cooked some awesome tofu Mexican food. Who’d ever think I’d eat tofu?! I have learned…if it’s cooked right its good. To be honest, I’d still pick meat. This was only my first FULL night here and I made sure to have people to walk home with, as I always do. Two of my friends walked me home, helped me fix my door, and then were on their way. We all are new to this area and they both had trouble finding their Ger’s. One finally found it, and the other called and asked if he could crash at my place until morning. Of course I encouraged him to make it to my apartment safely. I kind of felt bad because they had walked me all the way to my door, making sure I was safe, and then had gotten lost themselves.
My Job:
I have only had a few days of my job and they have been pretty relaxed. Today was actually the first day where I felt like I did something. My director and counterparts have walked me around, showing me things like the postoffice, the government building, the police station, etc… Yesterday I went with them to the monastery that is nearby. I will write more about this in a minute. I am working at the Aimag Children’s Center. This is a central place for youth activities, among other things. I will be doing many different things from teaching English to my counterparts to capacity building with child’s rights workers. I will also be working with youth who volunteer with disabled children, doing an information TV and radio program on child labor, a radio program on child abuse, leadership training and youth participation with the youth council and scouts leaders of the community. These are the things we discussed today. I will probably work a lot with the child labor stuff because it is a big problem and the government has proposed an action plan, but needs help carrying it out. (and I’m interested in it) I am replacing a volunteer who left recently, and I finally got to read her report of the projects that she started. This was nice because it helped clarify what I am getting myself into and what will be expected of me. Sometimes it is hard to replace somebody because you are expected to be like them, but I am excited to replace someone because her report helps give me some direction in an area that can be really hard to get started. I plan on continuing some of her projects, which helps to jump right in and get started. It can be really difficult to get a feel for things and to get started, but I feel like replacing somebody has made it easier because she had 2 years to assess some of the needs of the community and I can build off of what she already started. Getting these projects re-started is still going to be awkward and not so easy, but right now I am feeling really good about my placement and I think I will be able to make the next two years productive. I am afraid that if I don’t feel productive, I will question my being here. I’m loving Mongolia and the Peace Corps, so I hope to make the best of it. It’s funny because as I write this, I wonder if this is me being naïve. Today was actually pretty frustrating due to language barriers, but I felt it was a good day because I was able to make a calendar with my counterparts, so I can know what to expect for the next month or so. Some things took longer to communicate than others, and there was a point where I couldn’t understand what Ishe (my counterpart) was trying to say to me, so I asked her to try it in Mongolian. AND I UNDERSTOOD!!! This was a good feeling. Since I got to site, I haven’t been able to use my Mongolian very much because the people I work with always want to practice English and the one who doesn’t know English wants to learn. It is hard for people to realize that I know a little bit of Mongolian and if you speak slowly, it might be easier than them trying to say it in English. I still need to find a Mongolian tutor, but I need to meet more people before I get my hands on one. It’s interesting that now that I’m at my site I am SO eager to get started, but at the same time I know I need to ease myself into it. I got off easy these first few days. My director and counterparts really eased me in. I have friends who were thrown into an intense work day right off the bat. School doesn’t start until Sept. 3, so my job should be relatively slow until then.
Monasterys:
I’m pretty sure that I already wrote about the Monastery I went to in UB, where I saw a 60 foot statue of one of the buddhas. I really enjoy visiting the monasterys, but I had decided that I didn’t want to go to anymore until I knew more about Buddhism. That didn’t work out. My first day with my job, my director told me she was going to take me to the Monastery the next day for a special ceremony. I told her I enjoy visiting monasterys and she got excited and asked if I was Buddhist. I told her I was Jewish and she didn’t really understand. So, I looked it up in my dictionary. There was no word for Jewish, but there was a word for Jew. I pointed to it and she asked me if I was protestant, I said no, she asked if I was Christian, I said no, I’m Jewish. She said ok, but I don’t think she knows what Jewish is. I tried looking up the direct translation for the word that was in my dictionary for Jew, but couldn’t find it. The word is pronounced evreh khoon (it’s really hard to write Mongolian in English), it means ..something..person. Anyway, the following day, I went with them to the Monastery where there was a small crowd gathering just inside the gates. The most explanation for this ceremony that I got was that it was for the good fortune of the people. There were all sorts of rituals and chanting followed by 3 dancers with masks. One was wearing an old man mask with a white beard and white hair, the other two were smiling skeleton masks. I tried my best to interpret the dance. It was interesting because instead of the old man dancing to the music, it was more like the music was being played to his dancing. He did some dance steps and eventually got slower and slower and appeared to be losing his strength, he fell into the arms of the skeletons, they did a small dance and walked him away. What this meant can be interpreted how you want. There was more chanting and rituals and then there was a decorated vehicle holding the 3 dancers and maybe more people that drove down the steps and out the gates of the monastery. There was more celebration in the street right outside the gates. I found this entire experience interesting. Not just the rituals, chanting, dancing, attire, and instruments, but also the reactions by those watching. I don’t mean to knock on the people, but many people were answering their phones and chatting loudly. I scanned the audience, trying to find one person not involved in the actual ceremony that looked spiritually effected, but couldn’t find it. This is not to say that nobody was spiritually into this event besides those studying at the monastery. I am not one to judge what people do, but I was surprised when the guy wearing the old man mask walked into a delgoor (store) and bought an icecream and ate it in the middle of the celebration in the street. I wasn’t even watching him anymore, my director and counterpart were laughing at him and pointed it out to me, and then they decided it was time to leave. Before we left, we took a moment and walked into the main temple of the monastery. This was a whole different atmosphere. People seemed more focused. I say this again….I’d like to learn more about Buddhism before I visit another monastery, but who knows what will happen…
Alright, that is a complete update, it can’t get much longer than that. We’ll see what happens next. I have a new address now, so if you want it, e-mail me and I’ll tell you it. Remember…mail is always welcome!!! Internet mail is almost just as good!!!
It’s been a while since I really sat down and wrote anything about life in Mongolia. I will make an attempt right now, but I make no promises. I feel like I have been incredibly busy for the past month or so.
Saying goodbye:
Our last few days in Sukhbaatar were filled with packing and saying goodbye to our first Mongolian friends. It was actually sadder than I expected it to be. On my last night in Sukhbaatar, my friend and I cooked food for his family. They are really some of the sweetest people I’ve met. I then went to my house where my Doo (Mongolian for younger sibling), Unroe, had cooked amazing food. My Ech (Mongolian mom) and my Av (Mongolian dad) gave me a Dell (Mongolian traditional clothing) and some matching Jewelry. My Doo gave me a photo album with a picture of her and her little brother in it. After dinner, we played Rummicub, which is always a good time. I didn’t expect to feel anything when leaving, but I was actually a little sad to leave my Sukhbaatar life. After hanging out with my family for a little while I went over to my friends house and took a million pictures with her family and two other families. These people were so nice and fun to be around in Sukhbaatar and it was actually kind of sad to say goodbye. It’s kinda a funny connection that goes on between the Americans and these people. They are our first real impression of Mongolia, and they really made a good one. Its funny because there are people that I can’t even remember their name, but when I go visit Sukhbaatar I’ll definitely stop by to say Hi.
Final Darkhan Days:
The last post I wrote was while I was in Darkhan. I don’t remember what I wrote, so sorry if I’m repeating myself. I know I’m skipping around a little, but I haven’t really sat down and taken the time to really write in a while. I know I mentioned about site placements. This was a very interesting experience, but what was more interesting was observing the interactions for the rest of the time our group was together. We knew we were all going to different places soon, and you almost value your time together that much more. The knowledge that you are about to begin something that is going to be exciting and difficult, and is something you have been looking forward to for such a long time; and you are all going to go through it, just not in the same place. In Darkhan, we had family appreciation day, which was a blast. All the host families came to Darkhan from their respective towns to see their host children/brothers/sisters for one last time before they free us to explore Mongolia on our own. I got lost on my way to the gym for the big day…surprise, surprise. That was my second time getting lost in Darkhan, and now I really don’t have to ever go back there again, if I don’t want to. Anyway, once I got there, it was a really nice day. All the Americans were wearing our Dells that had been given to us by our families. We also performed cultural performances that we had learned at our training sites. The Mongolians loved seeing us ‘be mongolian’. To wrap up the day, there was an intense volleyball tournament, delicious food, and of course, a zillion pictures. It was nice to have one last day with the families. Who knows when we will see them next.
Ulaanbataar:
Following Darkhan we loaded onto a large bus and a little bus to head to UB, the capital of Mongolia. This was the same set up we had on the way to Darkhan at the beginning and was almost a way of finishing our training the way we started. Halfway through the trip the little bus had some tire trouble. The story is that the spare tire fell off and hit the wheel, breaking the tire. Some do not believe this because the big bus was behind and nobody saw a flying tire. It could just be that the driver didn’t have a spare tire…it will always be a mystery. Everyone from the smaller bus piled into the bigger bus and we continued on our way. UB days were full of people running us all over the place, showing us this and that. Really, it’s all a blur. I’m really not good with directions and it easy to get lost in UB, so I made sure not to go anywhere by myself. There were a lot of M17s (M17=Mongolia, group #17, I am M18) in UB and it was a nice time to get to know the other Peace Corps volunteers and a chance to meet people who have been at our sites for a year now. UB has ‘real’ bars and different kinds of food, so it was exciting to experience these things, knowing we won’t get the chance for a while. I enjoyed Mexican food and chicken wings, among other foods while I was there. We swore in on August 18, 2007 and became official Peace Corps volunteers. (Amy’s birthday!) UB was a tiring week because we had our schedules packed for us, we wanted to buy things to get ready for site, and to say goodbye to our friends all at the same time. I felt somewhat in a daze by all the activity going on around and within me. We met our directors and got to discuss our jobs for the first time. Also, I GOT A PHONE! Hurray! I’ll admit there were really nice things about not having a phone, but there are a lot of nice things about having one too. If you want the number and want to call me, just ask!
Saying Goodbye:
Finally, it came time to say goodbye to the people we have spent the past three months with. The goodbyes were tainted with excitement and nervousness for what was to come…
Getting to Site:
Of course, it had to rain. I was picked up in a Taxi around 930 am. We barely fit all my stuff in to the car and drove to another spot, where we met up with our driver. My director and I went into someone’s apartment while they repacked all my things into a Russian Jeep. Amazingly, it all fit in the back so we could fit everyone that was coming with us. I was exauhsted from the past few weeks and once in the Jeep, I fell asleep. I woke up to my director asking if I wanted to buy any food for the trip. We were still in UB! I fell back asleep. I woke up to us getting gas….still in UB! I fell asleep. I woke up to my phone….a text message from my friend asking how the ride was going. I looked around…WE WERE STILL IN UB! I fell asleep. I woke up to the screeching sound of the horn. I looked around and saw the amazing Mongolian scenery and a herd of cows in the middle of the rode. This felt better. Through the long ride, I was woken by this horn a number of times…horses, goats, sheep, and cows. I fell back asleep. I woke to the crying and gurgling of the adorable little baby sitting on his mother next to me. He was throwing up all over her. We stopped in the middle of nowhere for a bathroom break and so she could clean up. By ‘the middle of nowhere’….this is really what I mean. It was beautiful, the rain had cleared, the clouds were like a painting, the mountains in the distance and the wide open spaces created a beautiful scene. I just stood and stared at the beauty around me while everyone else scattered and squatted. We piled back in the Jeep and I fell asleep. We stopped a few times because the engine would overheat, and the driver would get out, walk to the river, scoop some water, poor it and we were on our way. We ate lunch in a little town and continued on our way in the same manner. The rode was bumpy, but I kept falling asleep anyway. We finally arrived in Arvaikheer, Ovorkhungai at about midnight and made a group effort to pile all my things into my new apartment. My director’s mother had made me a bucket of Hosher (Mongolian food) and had left me a jar of pickles, a few spices, 2 sprites, and a bucket full of Airag (Mongolian Milk alcohol). Everyone came in for some airag and then were on their way. I thought about setting up my place because I had gotten a lot of sleep throughout the day….instead I rolled out my Alaskan sleeping bag (the best sleeping bag I’ve ever seen…thanks to Peace Corps) and passed out.
My apartment:
My apartment is pretty big. I’d say it’s about the size of the apartment I grew up in, but it’s all to myself. I had been a little nervous about living by myself, but so far it’s going well. I have a kitchen, a balcony that is closed in with windows, a toilet room, and separated bathtub/sink room. I have a bedroom and a huge extra room, that I have made my art/fun room. This is where I will paint, write, and do anything else that’s not sleeping or reading. I still need to buy a ton of things for my apartment, but I will soon. I have a 1 burner stove, a fire stove, a bed, a couple little desk/storage spots. The best part about my apartment is that it is right near the main road and the square, which means it is really easy to find!
Living by myself:
I was really nervous about how I’d like living by myself. So far, I’m really enjoying it. This could just be because I really haven’t had much "alone time" in….well, a really long time. I am pretty good at keeping myself busy, and am not worried about getting lonely. I have been keeping in good contact with some of my friends who are far away. The other night some of the M17s (that’s the group who came last year, I am M18) were in town at one of the other volunteer’s apartments, so I went over there to hang out and they cooked some awesome tofu Mexican food. Who’d ever think I’d eat tofu?! I have learned…if it’s cooked right its good. To be honest, I’d still pick meat. This was only my first FULL night here and I made sure to have people to walk home with, as I always do. Two of my friends walked me home, helped me fix my door, and then were on their way. We all are new to this area and they both had trouble finding their Ger’s. One finally found it, and the other called and asked if he could crash at my place until morning. Of course I encouraged him to make it to my apartment safely. I kind of felt bad because they had walked me all the way to my door, making sure I was safe, and then had gotten lost themselves.
My Job:
I have only had a few days of my job and they have been pretty relaxed. Today was actually the first day where I felt like I did something. My director and counterparts have walked me around, showing me things like the postoffice, the government building, the police station, etc… Yesterday I went with them to the monastery that is nearby. I will write more about this in a minute. I am working at the Aimag Children’s Center. This is a central place for youth activities, among other things. I will be doing many different things from teaching English to my counterparts to capacity building with child’s rights workers. I will also be working with youth who volunteer with disabled children, doing an information TV and radio program on child labor, a radio program on child abuse, leadership training and youth participation with the youth council and scouts leaders of the community. These are the things we discussed today. I will probably work a lot with the child labor stuff because it is a big problem and the government has proposed an action plan, but needs help carrying it out. (and I’m interested in it) I am replacing a volunteer who left recently, and I finally got to read her report of the projects that she started. This was nice because it helped clarify what I am getting myself into and what will be expected of me. Sometimes it is hard to replace somebody because you are expected to be like them, but I am excited to replace someone because her report helps give me some direction in an area that can be really hard to get started. I plan on continuing some of her projects, which helps to jump right in and get started. It can be really difficult to get a feel for things and to get started, but I feel like replacing somebody has made it easier because she had 2 years to assess some of the needs of the community and I can build off of what she already started. Getting these projects re-started is still going to be awkward and not so easy, but right now I am feeling really good about my placement and I think I will be able to make the next two years productive. I am afraid that if I don’t feel productive, I will question my being here. I’m loving Mongolia and the Peace Corps, so I hope to make the best of it. It’s funny because as I write this, I wonder if this is me being naïve. Today was actually pretty frustrating due to language barriers, but I felt it was a good day because I was able to make a calendar with my counterparts, so I can know what to expect for the next month or so. Some things took longer to communicate than others, and there was a point where I couldn’t understand what Ishe (my counterpart) was trying to say to me, so I asked her to try it in Mongolian. AND I UNDERSTOOD!!! This was a good feeling. Since I got to site, I haven’t been able to use my Mongolian very much because the people I work with always want to practice English and the one who doesn’t know English wants to learn. It is hard for people to realize that I know a little bit of Mongolian and if you speak slowly, it might be easier than them trying to say it in English. I still need to find a Mongolian tutor, but I need to meet more people before I get my hands on one. It’s interesting that now that I’m at my site I am SO eager to get started, but at the same time I know I need to ease myself into it. I got off easy these first few days. My director and counterparts really eased me in. I have friends who were thrown into an intense work day right off the bat. School doesn’t start until Sept. 3, so my job should be relatively slow until then.
Monasterys:
I’m pretty sure that I already wrote about the Monastery I went to in UB, where I saw a 60 foot statue of one of the buddhas. I really enjoy visiting the monasterys, but I had decided that I didn’t want to go to anymore until I knew more about Buddhism. That didn’t work out. My first day with my job, my director told me she was going to take me to the Monastery the next day for a special ceremony. I told her I enjoy visiting monasterys and she got excited and asked if I was Buddhist. I told her I was Jewish and she didn’t really understand. So, I looked it up in my dictionary. There was no word for Jewish, but there was a word for Jew. I pointed to it and she asked me if I was protestant, I said no, she asked if I was Christian, I said no, I’m Jewish. She said ok, but I don’t think she knows what Jewish is. I tried looking up the direct translation for the word that was in my dictionary for Jew, but couldn’t find it. The word is pronounced evreh khoon (it’s really hard to write Mongolian in English), it means ..something..person. Anyway, the following day, I went with them to the Monastery where there was a small crowd gathering just inside the gates. The most explanation for this ceremony that I got was that it was for the good fortune of the people. There were all sorts of rituals and chanting followed by 3 dancers with masks. One was wearing an old man mask with a white beard and white hair, the other two were smiling skeleton masks. I tried my best to interpret the dance. It was interesting because instead of the old man dancing to the music, it was more like the music was being played to his dancing. He did some dance steps and eventually got slower and slower and appeared to be losing his strength, he fell into the arms of the skeletons, they did a small dance and walked him away. What this meant can be interpreted how you want. There was more chanting and rituals and then there was a decorated vehicle holding the 3 dancers and maybe more people that drove down the steps and out the gates of the monastery. There was more celebration in the street right outside the gates. I found this entire experience interesting. Not just the rituals, chanting, dancing, attire, and instruments, but also the reactions by those watching. I don’t mean to knock on the people, but many people were answering their phones and chatting loudly. I scanned the audience, trying to find one person not involved in the actual ceremony that looked spiritually effected, but couldn’t find it. This is not to say that nobody was spiritually into this event besides those studying at the monastery. I am not one to judge what people do, but I was surprised when the guy wearing the old man mask walked into a delgoor (store) and bought an icecream and ate it in the middle of the celebration in the street. I wasn’t even watching him anymore, my director and counterpart were laughing at him and pointed it out to me, and then they decided it was time to leave. Before we left, we took a moment and walked into the main temple of the monastery. This was a whole different atmosphere. People seemed more focused. I say this again….I’d like to learn more about Buddhism before I visit another monastery, but who knows what will happen…
Alright, that is a complete update, it can’t get much longer than that. We’ll see what happens next. I have a new address now, so if you want it, e-mail me and I’ll tell you it. Remember…mail is always welcome!!! Internet mail is almost just as good!!!
Tuesday, August 14, 2007
lil update
Tomorrow I will meet my counterparts, which will be very interesting. I only have a few more days in UB until I leave for my site. I am excited to live somewhere!! Everyone has been enjoying all the things that are available in UB, such as food that's not Mongolian, and free internet at the peace corps office. Yesterday, we visited the Prime Minister's building, the U.S. Embassy, and a few other places. Today, I went to a violence shelter and a Monastery. I love visiting the Monastery's and find them fascinating. I got to experience part of their "service" and take a look around. No pictures this time. In one of the buildings there was a 60 foot tall gold statue of buddha. It was intense, but amazing. It is interesting to walk around a place that is filled with people praying. There is a calmness in the air. I'm going to make an effort to learn more about buddhism before I visit another Monastery.
I don't really have a solid train of thougt right now, so I'm going to end this post.....
I don't really have a solid train of thougt right now, so I'm going to end this post.....
Friday, August 10, 2007
placement
The past few days have been pretty eventful! I left my host family, packed my things, and took a Micre (taxi-mini van size) to Darkhan. I reunited with the rest of my group, which is always interesting. After a few sessions, it was time for SITE PLACEMENT! The moment we've all been waiting for! I can now say...I know where I'm going to be living for the next two years. I am going to be in Ovorhoungai (sp?) in the Aimag center, that I can't pronounce yet. I'll find out how to spell it and let you know. I will be working at the Aimag Children Center doing.....well we'll see exactly what it is. I have a whole packet explaining my job, but it is still a little vague. The first few months are going to be filled with observation and adjustment. For site placement, they roll out a huge map of Mongolia and anounce one job at a time, followed by the persons name. You stand where you are on the map and watch everyone else. It was a very suspensful and emotional moment. I didn't expect the emotional part, but it is kind of sad seeing everyone being separated and being placed so far away from some of my best friends out here. I was one of the last people to be called. i need to hurry this up, but I will be going to Ulaanbataar in a few days and will swear in (on Amy's birthday)! After about 5 days there, I will pack my things and head on my 7 hours ride to Ovorhungai. I have 5 other volunteers in my area. Ok, i promise, i'll write more soon! i hope everyone doing well!
Wednesday, August 1, 2007
...
Blog 7-27-07
I haven’t really had much to write lately. I have 1 week left with my host family and then I’m off to new places. First I will be in Darkhan and then in Ulaanbatar, where I will swear in. I kinda wish I could just skip ahead to site placements. I am tired of people asking me what I expect and then telling me not to have any expectations. I really don’t have many expectations, so I want them to stop asking and just tell me where I will be and who I will be working with. I’m also curious to find out which Americans will be in my same area. Other than this stuff, I really don’t have much to say. I am wrapping up in Sukhbaatar. I have been trying to go hiking as much as possible because I don’t know where I will be next and I don’t know if I’ll have the mountains like I do here. My ech (Mongolian mom) made me a beautiful dell (Mongolian traditional clothing)!! It’s almost finished and I am so excited. It is an awesome shade of blue. Don’t worry; I’ll post pictures up when I have it.
Sometimes I find myself torn between thought and experience. I don’t want to think too much or try to analyze things because I feel like this is the time to experience everything around me and just go with the flow. I need to make sure to find the balance.
8-1-07
One sweltering hot day, we took a trip out to the country to visit a Buddhist monastery. It was really neat to see the beautiful painting and all the different Buddha figures. I enjoyed walking around, but I think I would have gotten more out of it if I knew more about Buddhism in
8-1-07
I really don’t have much to say lately….so what do people do when they have nothing to talk about? They talk about the weather…or baseball. Well, I don’t get to watch ANY Angel games, so the weather it is. I have decided that I love Mongolian summer! You really get the best of both worlds. It will be sunny and beautiful for a while, which leads into a hot spell. And right when you think it can’t get much hotter, it does! Only to be followed by a few days of refreshing rain, leading right back into the beautiful, pleasantly warm days. Here, one month covers the full span of weather change that we get in a year in Southern California.
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