The way out of Darjeeling was an adventure. I was told there was a bus leaving from a nearby town, Siliguri, every half hour until 8pm. They lady even called to confirm. Apparently she didn't call the bus people because I arrived at 630 (already dark) and the last bus heading toward my next destination was sitting full, ready to head out. I tried and tried to talk my way into a seat on the bus and was sent back and forth in the night, talking to different people to figure out what to do. I finally accepted the fact that I was not getting on that bus and started asking about trains. Supposedly, there was a train leaving at 10pm from the nearby train station, but I couldn't confirm this until I went to the train station. Rickshaw and tuk tuk drivers tried to get me to pay 100 and 150 rupees to get to the train station. I held off and paid 20 in the end. I arrived at the train station and stepped over people selling vegetables in the street, through tuk tuks and tuk tuk drivers trying to get me to go places that I wasn't going, and over and through sleeping bodies who looked like they'd set up camp at the train station. My introduction to the train stations in India. Now I know, tons of people sleep in the train stations. And it actually might be one of the safer places to sleep if I' m ever in a bind. I'm talking full families, camped out with cooking supplies and all. I waited in line and noticed the lines were filled with men. I shrugged at this and waited... until people started edging me to the front of the line. I had noticed the sign marked "ladies", but it didn't seem to lead to anything, so I'd kinda ignored it. I finally realized after people pushing me forward saying "ladies first" that women are allowed to go right in front, while the men wait patiently in line. I'll take it. I got to the front and explained that I wanted to go to Putna, which would lead me to a bus headed for Bodhgaya. She agreed but then explained that this counter is not for sleeper class, it is just for _____ class (i don't remember what it's called). At this point I was hot and tired and feeling a little frustrated, so I didn't pay much attention and just agreed, as long as I got on that train. A ticket in my hand, I was relieved. I stepped over sleeping bodies and through family and friendly dinners as I scoured the train station. I had a few hours to kill and wanted to become oriented before I joined the crowds sitting on the ground. I figured out what was where; the first class women's waiting room, the first class men's waiting room, platforms 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5, the signs that announce first in Hindi, then in English what trains are arriving and the status of the other trains. Finally, I realized I was about to embark on a 12 hour journey and when I saw people benched up on the train, looking pretty hot and uncomfortable, I probably wanted the sleeper class. EVERYTHING IS POSSIBLE IN INDIA. This is a saying that I have heard since the first moment I arrived in India. I found my way to a help desk and asked what I need to do to change my ticket to sleeper class. They sent me to another office. I never found that office, but when I found a different office and asked they said better that I get on the train sitting in the station now, waiting to part for my destination. This train I didn't know about. I had been told the next train wasn't for a few hours. I listened to the man and found my way to the train. I asked the men near the train how I change to sleeper class; one younger man lead me to about 4 other men one after another, and finally me onto the train into my new sleeper class seat. He didn't really ask for $, but I didn't want any problems later, so I asked how much. I paid 100 rupees and asked if he needed to write something on my ticket. Behind him, an older man said not to worry about it and that he'd be sleeping in the seat next to me and if there was a problem he'd take care of it. (how nice of him) Throughout the ride, this man treated me with the Indian hospitality that I have learned about, buying me tea and treats on the train, interested in my India and English books, and watching my bag as I watched his when headed for the bathroom. At the beginning I was weary of him, but it didn't take long to realize he was just a nice man. In the end, I ended up giving him one of my books as a thank you for making sure I was alright and that I got off at the right stop. Lesson of the train system: know the name of the train station, not just the city where I'm going. I got off the train and took a rickshaw through the crazy streets of Putna to where I could catch a bus to Bodhgaya. I arrived in one piece :)
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