Just an update.

I haven't posted in a while, and I've made some big changes.

1. I took a trip by myself to Pokhara, Nepal and stopped by this beautiful lake called Begnas Lake. The place was completely empty while I was there and the himalayas could be seen just over the mountains.

2. After a lot of thought, I decided to leave my volunteer program early and am no longer in Nepal. I have all sorts of justifications for this decision, but the most important one is that it just wasn't working out for me. It wasn't an easy decision, but I don't regret it at all.

3.I am now in Goa, India where it is warm and beautiful. The part of goa that I am is relaxing and not filled with all the crazy parties that Goa is so infamous for. \

4. Unfortunately, I have been extremely sick for about 5 days now. I went to the doctor and he gave me a bunch of medicine, which seem to be working temporarily.

5. It's New Years Eve and there's now way I'll be able to celebrate with the way I've been feeling. But I am quite satisfied with the past year and look forward to the year to come.

6. I have to leave India by Jan 12. I'm either headed to the U.S. or to Thailand. I haven't quite decided yet.


hopefully more in-depth posts to come. Happy New Year!

Thanksgiving

The history of Thanksgiving that we learn as children is so friendly. As we grow older we learn the skewed reality of the "thanksgiving story", but one thing remains the same. We take the time of Thanksgiving to cook giant meals and get together with friends and family. We sit at the dinner table and everyone says something they are thankful for. Usually people are thankful for their friends, family, and the food on their table. This is my third Thanksgiving outside of the U.S. Even when I am in the U.S., I spend thanksgiving with my friends and family, but there is also a lot of family and friends that are very far away. I have fading memories of spending thanksgiving as a child at my Aunts house or with other family friends. But for many years now, my family of 3 has spent all our thanksgivings with my "second family". When I was very young, this family invited me and my family to become a part of their family and over the years they have become really like family for me. For thanksgiving, each person will make something and bring it over to their house and everyone will join together to share and amazing meal. I am here in Nepal, where the poverty is blatant and the opportunities that people have are limited. Most people in this country will never eat a meal like the one on the thanksgiving table. The other Americans I am with and I will put together the best Thanksgiving meal we can and we will show the Israelis what its like to have a Thanksgiving meal. We will go around the table and have everyone say what they are thankful for. What am I thankful for?

Everything.

I am thankful for my friends, my family, my education, my freedom, my knowledge, my mind, my physical ability, the physical and mental ability of those around me, and I am thankful for my open mind. I am thankful to be in a place like Nepal, where I can learn a new culture, a new way of life, and expand my mind and knowledge. I am thankful for my empowerment, my capability of speech, the internet, and the feeling of really LIVING my life. I'm thankful for all who love me and all who I love. And I'm thankful for all the difficult situations that I have experienced and the opportunity to turn them into learning experiences and growth.

Happy Thanksgiving. This is the only time of year I get a little homesick while I'm away.

The Himalayas

I feel like I have gotten only small tastes of the Himalayas so far. From India to Nepal, I have tempted myself with the foothills, but have not gotten close enough to see the enormousness of this famous mountain range. In India, I went to the Everest Museum and saw an amazing diagram of the Himalayas. I find myself becoming more and more fascinated and more and more drawn to them. Before coming to Nepal, my one goal was to do the "tea-house trekking" lower part of the mountain range. Upon arrival to Nepal, my goal was to see Mt. Everest; to find the best view of the mountain that I could. Now that I've been in Nepal for about a month and a half, I can feel my goals changing. I feel this drive to do the Mt. Everest basecamp trek. It is a 14 day trek both ways, which takes you to the basecamp of Everest. The place where the hardcore trekkers who attempt Everest begin. My program ends in February, so it will be very cold. However, it is one of the most popular times of year to trek in Nepal because the visibility is better. I think I want to do it. I dream of it. I'm sure if I will do it. I leave my plans always open to change, but at the moment I really want to do this trek. If I decide to do it, it'll cut my trip shorter because can be pretty pricey. I have time to think about it. But I love having these types of options. It's amazing!!!!

Flying High!

I waited with 2 other volunteers to catch our bus to Kathmandu. We stood by the side of the rode waving our hands at buses, which ultimately flew by us full with people. As bus after bus passed us, I started waving at some of the truck drivers head for the capital, hoping to find a ride. Eventually, a bus stopped and us and the Nepalis waiting for a bus rushed toward the doors. The driver didn't take anyone inside, and we headed to the back to climb to the top, just to watch it pull away from us. Eventually another bus stopped for us. The Nepalis pushed their way on and the 3 of us foreigners were instructed to climb up top. We were a little excited for this, our first chance to ride the top of the bus. It's an experience that we all wanted before leaving Nepal. We climbed up the ladder and made ourselves "comfortable", sitting on people's bags. We made sure our bags were relatively secure and found places to hold on as the bus took off. Now, if I were a bus driver with human beings riding the top of my bus as I drive the windy and bumpy roads of Nepal, I think I would manage my speed a little to make sure nobody got hurt. This is not the philosophy of a Nepali bus driver who has been putting people on the top of his bus since he first started driving. As we rounded each turn, we shifted our weight and grabbed various parts of bags and the small railings to feel more secure. The reality is that we were fine, but this was not an experience we were used to. As we worried for our lives and I pictured us tumbling off and down the mountain, we tried to use Beyonce as a way to destract us. It worked. The truth is, it was really fun. If it were slightly safer, we had the best seats on the bus. We watched as the bus pulled away from the magnificant views of Nepal and starred in awe at the top of the Himalayas. The cool breeze against our skin, sun on our faces, and really feeling a part of the scenery. It was also funny to see people's reactions of seeing 3 foreigners riding the top of the bus. It is common to see people packed on the top of the bus around Nepal and India, but it is never only 3 foreigners. People waved as we passed by, trucks honked, men and women on motorcycles smiled and waved and lowered their bandanas from their mouths to say "hello" before putting it back to protect them from the pollution. There was even a few guys riding the top of the truck who were joking about how tight we were holding on. At one point the money collector for the bus swung his body onto he roof as we were holding on for our lives. He was so comfortable moving along the outside of this bus while it traveled down the windy roads. As we approached the checkpoint to enter Kathmandu, we were instructed off the rooftop and into the bus filled with Nepalis, and we headed to our stopping point.

Mud Mansion

When I first arrived with my 6 roommates to Mahadav Besi, we arrived to our mud house and were overwhelmed with the amount of work it needed. Our task of the first few days in the village was simply to make our home liveable. The house sits in a beautiful location with views of mountains/hills from all angles. Their are fields everywhere and it is on "the road" in this small part of the village. We have neighbors attached to our house and the next nearest house is where the Nepali staff of my program live. Other than that, there is a "Rye Village" about 10 minutes away, another "Rye Village" past that, and those living in the stone quarry down by the river. There is one school at the top of a hill where many of the "Rye" children go to school and farms everywhere. It is absolutely beautiful. It felt like cleaning out someone else's garage as we pulled everything out of the house and layed it out front. We cleaned and went through everything, deciding what to throw, what to keep, and how to make this place a home. The structure is made of wood covered by mud. After all the clean-up, here is what it is like. From the road, you walk down a path, which is more like a "walking trail", lined to the right by sugar cane and to the left by fields waiting to be churned and replanted. Now, we had begun our garden, which is along this path. We are also building a small fishpond in this area. In front of the house is a porch and open area, which is shared with our neighbor 'hajur buwaa', an old man who is slunched with missing teeth and an cathedar, but still tends the sugar cane fields and works with the grains. What a tough old man. On the front of the porch is a hammock, built by one of my roommates who I swear can build ANYTHING and really has the innovation and energy to do them all (hence the fishpond). Approaching the front door, on the left is another door that leads to one of the rooms. You duck your head through the front door (the whole place is built for people no taller than I) and to the right is the "living room" and kitchen. It is basically a mud room with a table, a couple blankets and pillows to sit on, a 2 burner stove, and a fireplace made of mud (which we don't use due to poor ventilation techniques). A little forward, and you run into the wall, but to the left is the ladder. Going up the ladder to the second floor, you are exposed to a bigger room, filled with 3 beds. There is an attic area above there, but it's hard to get up there and I'm not interested in whats up there. Then through the doorway takes you to a large balcony separated by a doorway. One guys sleeps on the balcony sometimes, but started to get cold. To the right, is another door, which leads to my mud room, which I share with another American. The beds are are basically wooden boards with a few blankets on top. I don't sleep well. I keep warm, but when I sleep on my side, I feel like my ribs are crushing into me. I must add that it is not the worst bed of my life and my bed in Mongolia was much worse! I mostly stay awake from the mice. The mice on the metal roof and in the walls is absolutely insane!!! I've tried earplugs, I think I put them in wrong. I've tried listening to my Ipod, the stimulation to my brain keeps me awake. The mice are most active between the hours of 11pm and 6 am. They drive me nuts! And up until the other night, dew fell on my face as I was trying to sleep in the morning, which gathered on the metal ceiling. My builder roommate put up plastic to stop this. So nice of him. He's also build a fire oven outside and an outdoor "shower". It's quite impressive the things he comes up with. I think I learn just by watching him. We also have an outhouse... which is..... an outhouse.

We are making the most of our mud mansion.

Mahadav Besi

I am back in Kathmandu after about a week and a half in the town of Mahadav Besi, where I will be spending the next 3 months. The village feels like its in the foothills of the mountains. It is absolutely beautiful. The hills look like they have giant steps, which are the fields where the people get their livelihood. They grow rice, potatoes, cabbage, and whatever else. Their crops are not very diverse but as time goes by, they are widening the variety. The land is green and beautiful and from walking around and talking to people, I am slowly learning more about agriculture. One day, we took a hike down the river and through countless rice fields to one of the nearby waterfalls. It was absolutely beautiful, but hurt as I stuck my head underneath to wash my hair and body. The weather is amazing, with the sun shining basically every day. The temperatures drop around 6 pm as you watch the sun fall behind the mountains. The evenings are not too cold, but then the temperature drops again around 11pm and I am happy I bought a good sleeping bag from the REI used sale right before I left. The night sky is pitch black, with almost no light pollution. The stars illuminate the sky with clarity, but I must admit, the view is nothing compared to that of the countryside sky of Mongolia. Where I live, is along a road that is connected to the "city", which consists of a piece of the main road that is lined with small shops and vegetable venders. Behind the market are a couple schools, the health and police posts, and a few more shops. The roads are full of children in their school uniforms, indicating which school they go to. Throughout the village and the market area are men, children, and women carrying impossibly heavy loads with a strap that goes across their heads. Few people in this area speak English. I find it difficult to meet people, but I have become friendly with 2 people in the market. They are brother and sister and work in a fabric store with their family. They are a Muslim family and I am hoping the girl will take me to the Mosque with her one of these days. I eat lunch at the same place everyday. Nepalis eat Dhal Bhat (rice with vegetables and lentil soup) two times a day. I am not a huge fan of Dhal Bhat and occasionally switch it up with spicey chicken dumplings or vegetarian chow mein (neither of which are very tasty).

The Volunteer work is coming along.... slowly, but I am really excited for some of the work opportunities. There is a group of people who work in the stone-quarry. They have a very difficult life and work hard breaking stones into gravel. They are borderline in a debt bondage situation and I plan on assessing if it is trafficking or not. Other than that, I will be working with 2 women's groups on issues of HIV/AIDS, domestic violence, and sexual abuse awareness, along with communication styles and financial management techniques. I will also be working with a youth group in this area. These people live on the riverbed and work really hard. They live in temporary housing situations but get stuck for more years than intended. I must say, their lives are very difficult but they are a very strong people and live in a very beautiful place. Also, I will be working at a blind children's school and another school. I am excited to dive right in!

my "prophecy"

We were asked to write a "prophecy" regarding the world. It was very open and we were given 20 minutes to come up with a song, a quote, a picture, to write, or whatever other form we decided to express our feelings about mankind, social justice, or whatever way we interpreted the assignment. Much of it was in Hebrew, so I was not able to understand what most people said or wrote. On the English and visual side; one person took a picture with a black background and money in the foreground, another read the song "wear sunscreen" (or whatever its called), another read a quote from the John Mayor song "waiting for the world to change", someone else referred the group to a movie and a song which concentrate understanding a cycle that people get stuck in and not to judge people based on what "they're best" is. Here's what I wrote:

You exploit your workers til they feel pain,

You reap the gain that comes from their daily strain,

Good intentions you claim as they're driven insane.

They come out maimed as you sit on your thrown in vain.

You keep people down and think that your tough,

But what you don't realize is that life for them is rough,

And the strength that they have is stronger than your monetary love.

With a little help they will get through this stuff,

And they'll come out the other side like a diamond in the ruff.

As you lie on your self-proclaimed death bed,

You'll realize what you should have done instead,

Was to work together to move ahead,

and together you could have positively progressed and the road to prosperity you would have led.

Deewali is the festival of lights.

Tihar, Diwali, Deepawali. This holiday is really amazing, but also pretty complex. My understanding of it is limited, but I have been trying to learn, and I have definitely been celebrating. There are days to worship different animals; the crow, the dog, and the cow. There is also a day to respect brothers and sisters, where brothers give money to sisters and sisters give tikka (red dot between the eyes) and gifts in return. The animals also receive tikkas and garlands of orange flowers on their respective days. I will describe the first day of Diwali

I left the house and headed to the thamel with no particular goal in mind. I just wanted to wander around and see what happens on this festive evening. I had no idea what to expect. As I walked down the small streets of my section of town, I passed by many families and shop owners making sand pictures on the ground and lighting candles through the entrances of shops and homes. I noticed small crowds of young children singing to shop owners and receiving small rupee notes. It can be slightly compared to caroling, but they all sing one of 2 songs. I continued down the winding streets of closed shops and lights, candles, and celebratory flags strewn everywhere until I ran into a mob of people. It took me a minute to figure out that inside the mob was people singing and dancing "nepali style". The people on the outside of the circle sang and clapped along. I continued on my way to dinner. After dinner, I wandered into the streets of thamel, usually a very touristy place but on this night full of lively nepali singing and dancing. I walked with my new Nepali friend to meet up with some of his friends. He works for a cultural arts organization and him and his friends all play instruments. (i met him as my drum teacher) We joined his friends in an alley of this maze of walking streets where we celebrated life with whiskey, song, dance, 2 drums, and 3 nepali string instruments. (i forgot what they were called) The group finished in this space and moved to the storefronts of one shop to another. I followed their dance moves, their shouts and chants, and they were excited by the lonely westerner joining in the fun. My german friend who I'd met in India passed by the group and we joined him in some bar hopping and people watching. The night ended with a group of 4, each from a different country; America, Nepal, Germany, and Mozambique sitting on the top of a building in Kathmandu. The festivities slowly dispersed as the police tried to get everyone to go home and people just move their celebrations from one corner to the next. We shared cabs home and when I arrived at "the big house", I collapsed in my bed exhausted from the night of song, music, dance, lights, and a whole city celebrating the joys of life. It is amazing to see everyone celebrating the same holiday and really celebrating all together.

Now in Kathmandu

I left India and arrived in Kathmandu. The following day, I met up with my volunteer group. We put our luggage on a truck and walked through the bustling streets of Kathmandu to find the house that will be our home for the next month. We are a group of about 25, almost all Israelis. It was interesting to meet the people in the group. Most of them are just starting their travels and this is there first opportunity to travel and volunteer for an extended period. Everyone was so appreciative to be in Nepal and to be here to volunteer. I kinda felt bad because I had mixed emotions about leaving India. I found myself stuck between two amazing experiences. I was not quite ready to leave India, which left me thinking about Indian culture, music, the little bit of hindi and Indian way of think that I've picked up. I'm usually pretty good at taking each experience as it comes, but as I flew to Kathmandu, met with my house mates, and was introduced to the program, I realized that my head was still in India. It's taking a longer time to make it to Nepal than I thought. Though, I find that with each Nepali lesson, I find myself being brought into Nepal. I really look forward to volunteering in the village, and hope to end up as far away from Kathmandu as possible. As I meet these people who have gotten themselves into the unknown for the first time, I remember a little bit what it was like when I first began Peace Corps. The fascination with every tiny change in the ways of life, the wonder how people perform daily tasks without this convenience or that, the excitement of learning a totally new people, culture, and language. I almost miss the excitement. I am really excited about the new people, culture, and language, but I think the differences in way of life have lost some of their excitement. I walk down the street and see the vendors selling tubs for holding water, and I get nostalgic about my ger. I now know, firsthand, that no matter what conveniences are not available, I will be fine and I might even appreciate the simplicity. It is less a challenge, and more an acceptance. Things are "same same but different". The more I travel, the more I find this to be true.

Seeing India

Poverty, Malnutrition, Child Labor, Domestic Violence, Rape, Human Trafficking, Exploitation, Inequality, Unequal distribution of wealth, etc....

These are just some of the harsh realities of the world that we live in. These are things that happen all over the world. In India (and I think Nepal), these things feel much more "in your face" (for lack of a better word). Many westerners who travel through India hate it because it makes them uncomfortable. It is so sad for them to see the examples of extreme poverty, it makes them feel guilty for the life they have, and they would much rather return to their ignorance. Where children with pot bellies, skinny arms, covered in flies only exist on their television screen. Where they can send a check to an organization and tell themselves they are not ignoring the rest of the world. It is these blatant challenges to life that I appreciate in a place like India. In India, nobody can pretend that there aren't people who need their help. It is much harder to live your life without being reminded how lucky we are. I wish these westerners would see the harsh lives of these people and realize this is reality. This is the world. Not everything is shiny. One is not necessarily better than the other. It is often the most economically desperate people who know true happiness. Whats bigger is NOT always better. Want and Desire are causes of true suffering (to borrow from buddhist philosophy). I wish people could come, see, experience, help where possible, and most of all LEARN. LEARN. LEARN. Learn from the people, learn from a different way of life, learn from the conditions, learn from your reactions to everything that comes up, learn to appreciate, learn to understand, learn to SEE.

Musical Mcleod

I have so much to write about! I have been really having an amazing trip and I get so caught up on all the experiences that I forget to write in my blog. So, I want to try and give a full and complete update.

INDIA

I think that India challenges travelers in every way. While I was there, there were so many situations that came up where I really had to observe my reactions to things and figure out what to do next. I didn't have any of the unsafe experiences that fill the popular attitude of a single female traveling in India alone. I have met many female travelers enjoying a solo journey. When I meet women who have been to India and say they would never travel alone, I can't help but wonder what type of experience they had and what it is that keeps the fear within them. India is an amazing place with beautiful people, along with its many difficulties. I wonder if it's simply their attitude to travel or attitude towards locals. Or maybe they are just not comfortable being on their own without another person as a crutch. It makes me sad that people's own insecurities, misunderstandings, or negative attitudes lead to many misconceptions about India abroad. I spent my second month in India in Mcleod Ganj, the official residence of the Dalai Lama. My time there was as progressive and changing as my traveling period. I began with the Dalai Lama teachings and skipping vipassana. I then spent some time really into yoga and discovering a yoga teacher who I do not now his name, but will remain in my memory for a very long time. I then found myself getting to know many foreigners and locals. I and the people around me progressively formed a small community of people, engaging in musical conversations on a nightly, and sometimes daily, basis. I discovered my musical self. I have never been a very musical person. I am not one of those people who always downloads music, or has music on in the background. Actually, I spend most of my alone time in silence. For a long time, I have wanted to learn to play a certain type of drum, but music was never important enough for me to learn. In Mcleod, I discovered a musical being within myself. I finally bought a Djembe and decided to learn from anyone who wanted to teach me, instead of taking formal lessons. This was to save money, but more importantly because the love that I have developed for music involves people. It is a connection between people and rhythms that creates an atmosphere which is inherently spiritual. No matter what the situation. So, I learned some rhythms on the drum and as I practice have been learning how to also make my own rhythms. Now, I am in Kathmandu and have been missing the music and the people of Mcleod. I find myself in this volunteer house with Indian songs playing in my head and wishing people would suddenly break into the lively song and dance of Mcleod. At first, it appeared I was the only one who brought an instrument. Now, slowly, instruments keep popping up. I have heard a flute somewhere in the house, a guitar was found in one of the rooms, and my roommate used to sing in an acapella (sp?) group. I hope I will find a new musical outlet. The musical conversations of Mcleod were something I had not experienced in my life, and I now feel I can not live without. It will not be the same. But it is impossible to duplicate the bamboo hut on the top of the guesthouse in the foothill of the himalayas. The chilled evening air, beautiful stars in the sky, and the mix of Indians, Tibetans, Nepalese, American, Germans, Dutch, Brazilians, Israelis, Portuguese, Chileans, French, Australians, Kiwis, Mexicans, and many more coming together in song and dance in various languages but speaking the common language of music and movement. Here, we will create a new musical environment and different types of connections. I'm sure the experiences here will be just as beautiful and meaningful as those with Mcleod. I just feel gratitude for all the experiences and people that come by way.

Time to go...

I leave Mcleod Ganj tonight on a bus headed for Delhi. From there, I will take a flight to Nepal and begin a volunteer program. I have stayed in Mcleod Ganj for much longer than I intended. It is a tourist/backpacker haven, which makes me feel guilty for spending so much time here. But at the same time, I have learned A LOT. It is a magical place with nightly vibrations of music, where travellers, Indians, and Tibetans join together in song and dance. I have had the opportunity to make some very good Indian friends. They have taught me about marriage in India, attitudes and opinions towards Tibetan refugees, and the clashes between the Indian way of life and the tourism industry. I plan to write the things that I have discovered, but don't want to spend my last day here on the computer.

I am sad to leave Mcleod and sad to leave India. I feel like I have just scratched the surface of what India has to offer and plan to come back to see south India after Nepal. We'll see how things work out.

Namaste.

Pictures

As you may have noticed. I have not posted any pictures. I am having a hard time getting my pictures on a computer and am too scared they are all gonna accidentally be deleted. So, you can just google (images) the places that I go :)

India with a Purpose?

It seems that most people who travel to India come with a purpose. Whether it be for the yoga, meditation, religion, trekking, tibetan language, hindi, or the food. Everyone seems to have a purpose to coming to India. Some are searching for something and it is really interesting to see people who come to India searching for answers or for some sort of meaning of life. I think many of these people really just need to look within, however, India seems to have that effect on them Others get so caught up in the buddhism as a way to answer whatever question it is that they have. Before coming here, I had thought about this. I was on the airplane from Chicago to Delhi and I remembered that when I used to read travel stories of India, it often seemed people were either looking for something, or escaping something. I thought hard; why am I going to India? I didn't really have an answer. I wasn't going with any purpose. I chose India because I had heard a lot about it and it was a place that just seemed like it would be interesting. Even while travelling through the first section of my trip, I wondered. Why here? what's here that has drawn me? Still no answer. I am simply here to experience. I am here to travel. I am here to see what happens. And having no plan and no purpose has been one of the very best things about my trip thus far. It has served me well and seems to me to be the BEST way to travel India (for me).

I got to Dharamsala ready for the Dalai Lama teachings. I didn't even know why I was going, simply because everyone seems to get so excited about him and so I felt like I should check it out. I had tickets to see him in Long Beach, but he got sick and I wasn't able to see him. I was disappointed but not devastated. Here, in Dharamsala people were REALLY excited to see him. Innitially, I'd decided to see his teachings because they ended the day I was going to start my Vipassana, so I might as well go early and try to see him speak. And so, I did.

The teachings were about achieving a state of Bodhiccita, a state of beings that kind of serves as a stepping stone to englightenment. Now, I'm no teacher, but what I got out of a lot of the teachings and the talks around the teachings is this:
people want to become the best person they can be. They want to refrain from hurting others, and reach a state of self-realization and truth. They want to create positive energy for the world and to create "good karma" for the benefit of "all sentient beings". Basically, everything that they work hard to achieve is for the greater good of all people and living things.

This, I understand.

However, I was having a hard time with this idea at the same time. I had a hard time understanding how meditation and creating a better self was going to solve many of the worlds problems. I know the buddhist answer to this. According to Buddhism, creating a better self will help you reincarnate into a better being, and if everyone would work on better theirself and releasing themselves and others from suffering, the worlds problems would eventually be fixed. The most basic causes of this suffering are attachment, ignorence, and desire. I could go on and on about this, but I'm not going to. Anyway, to me people seemed pretty "attached" to this "desire" to a achieve or work towards enlightenment. My social worker mind is of couse thinking about the other types of suffering; famine, abuse, and lack of resources. I know the two are intertwined, it's just figuring out how. If only, I could tell people to meditate and to learn to detach themselves from whatever it is that is causing their suffering. If only it were that easy. This thought process, along with a couple other experiences I have had in India (good and bad) have made me realize that India has turned me into a social worker. Through my two years of MSW education, I fought with myself over where I wanted to take it, and even if I was studying the right subject. I graduated and didn't know which direction I was headed. I've never been into planning things, so I was pretty comfortable with this. I headed to India with no particular purpose, but now I feel like India is giving me it's purpose. I am taking yoga and learning from many different experiences and it is helping me form. I don't know where it will take me, but I have realized that India has a lot to teach social workers. I almost consider this as a part of my social work education. For the first time ever, I actually WANT to take the things that I am learning and will continue to learn and use it in social work practice. For me, thats a BIG step in a new direction. There are tons of things to learn here and I will be making the most out of these opportunities. I'm not saying I'm on a quest to search for opportunities related to social work, but I will say that I have finally discovered that I am naturally inclined in that direction. Without even trying, I happen upon experiences that will help me to better serve others. In this way, my meditation and learning is benefiting "all sentient" beings, and I don't have to become a nun. I'm still figuring out all the details and inter-relatedness, but in due time, it will come. The other day, I had just finished my yoga lesson and I was just thinking about some things and I realized that for the first time, I KNOW that I got my masters degree in the right field.

I do not concentrate on the future, I only concentrate on the present, but I know that these experiences are shaping my future in a way that only time will show what is to come.

Additionally, I have decided to keep this blog up to date. I never really know what I'm going to write, but I have realized that the majority of people that I know will never make it to India. Because of this, I guess I feel a sense of responsibility to share my experiences. To give others a taste of India that they would otherwise not have. Though the people reading this are getting a taste of "my" India, it is a perspective that does not exist anywhere else and will never exist again. India is giving me it's gift and I am giving my gift.

Mcleod Ganj

I have now been in Mcleod for a little more than 10 days. I really love it here. There are too many foreigners, but in a way that's good too. It like a little subculture in itself. I have had many great experiences and have met tons of great people. I am at the point where I walk around and run into friends all over the place (tibetan, indian, and other travellers). I have been enjoying the yoga classes the most. I have been going every day (except today) and sometimes twice a day. Yoga here does not feel the same as yoga at home. At home we are so over-obsessed with working out and physique that yoga has taken on a totally different meaning. Here, the yoga is all about being mindful of your breathing, doing the postures correctly wo that you can reach maximum benefit, and minding your own practice. Maximum benefit in yoga here does not refer to loosing weight or being flexible, it is about maximizing the flow of energy in your body. I feel like I could stay here and take yoga classes forever! I took a two day Indian cooking course in hopes that I will be able to make some delicious Indian food when I get home. I have also attended a few other "functions". One was to listen to a tibetan ex-political prisoner speak about his experience, and another has been to volunteer in a conversation class with other tibetan ex-political prisoners. The plight of the Tibetans is something that we, in the U.S., know very little about. This town is filled with Tibetans seeking refuge and hoping to one day be able to safely return to their homeland. (though, I"m sure some want to stay here too) I have been increasing my knowledge about the Tibet but still do not feel knowledgable enough to be teaching. So, with that I say, go research Tibet and find information about what is going on there. Additionally, I have been reading a book called, The Jew in the Lotus. It has somewhat lost my interest now, but the first half of the book is very interesting. It talks about a dialogue between the Dalai Lama and some Jewish rabbis. It also compares and contrasts the Tibetans and the Jews.

The eclectic mix of people here is really amazing to observe. Every night there is people playing live music on top of one of the guesthouses. It is a mix of Indians, Israelis, Brits, and much more (korean, american, german, dutch, etc...). I started to learn how to play the drum ( i forget what kind it's called) with this Austrian girl. I want to take lessons, but at the same time I feel it is time to move to my next place. I am stuck with deciding where to go. Here are the places that I'm thinking about:
Leh is supposed to be absolutely beautiful and the ride from Manali to Leh is an adventure in itself. There is trekking up there and it is at a really high altitude. I have heard stories of people having a hard time with the altitude and also of buses getting stuck.
Manali is also supposed to be beautiful, it is much closer and I'll probably head there next, then decide...
Rishikesh is known for it's yoga and I have looked into a yoga ashram that includes yoga, meditation, and teachings
Kashmir is a place I've heard a lot about in reading about in India, but have only met a couple people who have visited. One guy told me he didnt' feel like tourists were welcome there. Its strange for me, realizing that I'm a tourist :) Anyway, I have made some friends from there and I could go with them to visit.

I will decide soon.....
The freedom to be able to go anywhere and do anything is really amazing. I was sitting at dinner with some people and these two girls just randomly decided to head to Bali together. It was awesome to watch the process and to watch their excitement grow as their realized they were really gonna do it!

I've said it before and I'll say it again, EVERYTHING IS POSSIBLE (sub kuch milega)

The Dalai Lama

I arrived in Dharamsala and immediately took a bus to Mcleod Ganj, the part of Dharamsala that holds the official residence of the Dalai Lama. I had heard that you can see his teachings for free (rather than the $150 I'd seen to register online). So, I dropped my stuff at a guesthouse and headed out to find out where to sign up. It wasn't very hard to find the line of (mostly foreigners) waiting to register at the last minute to see the teachings. I got my registration card and spent the rest of the day figuring out what is where. When I found the temple, I saw the are filled with blankets and pillows, some marked with people's names. I wasn't sure if I was supposed to pick a spot, so I decided to keep the meditation pillow that I just bought with me, and I'd find a spot in the morning.

I woke up early and headed for the main temple. I found a free place to sit and watched the people trickle in. Tibetans, Indians, and foreigners from all over the world found their places and awaited the arrival of the Dalai Lama. Some of the foreigner groups found their designated signs which read, "Japanese translations", "Korean", "spanish/portuegese", etc... People did their cora (not sure how you spell it, but it's when they walk 3 times around the temple usually with prayer beads and uttering mantras under their breath). I could see the "om mani padme hum, om mani padme hum" coming out of the lips of people from all over the world. I sat and observed. The leader of the Southeast Asian group (the people who payed $150) started chanting a beautiful matra over the speakers as the place FILLED. There were people everywhere. A person in this place can not be in need of the "personal space" that we cherish so much in the U.S.

Finally, the chanting stopped and people started to slightly rise in hopes to catch a glimpse of the Dalai Lama. He entered the temple accompanied by security and a few monks. You could feel the excitement in the air. He walked into the temple and took his seat. Everyone stood out of respect and once he sat down, most of the monks, nuns, and others around me performed their 3 prostrations to the Dalai Lama and to the giant Buddha behind him. We sat down and I got ready with my radio to listen to the English translation. He started with a few prayers and then with an buddhism introduction in ENGLISH. I was surprised, and so were the tibetans around me. I handed my radio to the Tibetan nun next to me as she frantically wondered what he was saying. She became my learning partner throughout the 3 days, as we shared the radio, tea, and tibetan bread. The Dalai Lama talked in English about some basic buddhist ideas including; detachment, love and compassion, helping others, the fact that you don't have to be a buddhist to gain from buddhism, quoted the buddha on finding your own truth, and shared a few jokes of his own. He then explained that he is not confident in his English and switched to Tibetan as he went through a 2 day teaching on the Bodissatva (sp?). The book he was teaching about it a book that explains how to reach "Bodhiccitta" (sp?), which is basically a state of being that is like a stepping stone to attaining enlightenment. The first day was intense. He covered a lot of material and some very complex ideas. It was hard for me to follow everything, but I also found myself drawn to his teachings. I am not a Dalai Lama follower. I have not watched any of his teachings on Youtube and have never read any of his books. However, I must say; some people come with a certain presence that draws others to them. He has a very light (as in the weight) state of being. I left the teaching with questions and a little bit of confusion, and at the same time a feeling that I had just recieved a teaching from a very smart person. In a way, I felt lucky to have learned from him, as you feel lucky when you realieze you have recieved a really great professor. Only, he is teaching about life.

While heading out of the temple at the end of the first day, I ran into a foreigner who I'd met at a restaurant the night before. He asked me what I thought of the teachings and I explained to him that it was a lot of information. He informed me about a review at a nearby meditation center, where I'd be able to ask questions. I ate and rested a little, then headed for the review session. The walk was absolutely beautiful! At the foothills of the Himalayas, Dharamsala is made up of breathtaking views of massive "hills" filled with trees. I made it to the review and asked a few questions and gained more of an understanding of what the Dalai Lamas teachings are all about.

Day #2 of the teachings started out in the same way as day #1. As I saw the people finding their seats, I realized how lucky I was that I happened to end up in a seat with a clear view of the Dalai Lama. People sit in the same seat for the whole teaching, but most foreigners (including myself) didn't know this ahead of time. So, people would switch around and the monks and nuns would say nothing. There was one lady (australian, I think) who seemed pretty frustrated and chose not to be quiet about her state of being. Maybe she needed the teachings more than others. For day #2, I felt like the Dalai Lama had really become my teacher. I had more of an understanding of the teachings, and found a copy of the text in English so I could follow along better, and I guess there was slightly less amazement. I still felt lucky. I once again attended the review session. I found myself a bit frustrated with some of the teaching and there was a section that I really wanted to dive into. I didn't get the chance. (i will explain a little about this in another post)

Day #3 of the Dalai Lama teachings was very different. It was full of people taking laypersons vows, and vows of refuge in the 3 jewels of buddhism. It was filled with blessings from the Dalai Lama, red strings, and red blindfolds. It followed with a slew of white (khataks, in Mongolian) prayer scarves, which I had learned in Mongolia were for teachers. I almost left early, but something kept me there. In the end, I was glad I had stayed. I had moved my seat closer to the door and had watched as everyone made their prostrations and accepted their blessings. I took a few blessings and vows of my own, keeping within my own sense of being. (ie: no vows of celibacy or not to drink alcohol for me) It was actually a very beautiful ceremony and I now wear my red string, which have been blessed by the Dalai Lama on my wrist as a reminder of the teachings and blessings that I recieved.



After the ceremony, I headed out with the rest of the blessed mob and ran into the same friend at a coffee shop. I sat there and debated if I was going to start my 10 days of silent Vipassana meditation that day. I didn't feel ready and felt like I had a lot of opportunities for learning in Mcleod Ganj and I didn't want to be in 1 place for 10 days. I bailed. Looking back, I think it was the right decision.

Delhi #1

During today's downpour I'll update this blog :)

From Agra, I headed to Delhi. I didn't do too much in Delhi. I was pretty focused on getting over that cold and not feeling so tired all the time. I stayed with my friend in Delhi and the city is so big that I was somewhat overwhelmed with what to do. People say that the Red Fort and the Mosque are not to be missed. I will see them next time I'm in Delhi. I went to a few cool places with my friend's friends and had a night on the town. I did take the opportunity to visit the Mohatma (sp?) Gandhi museum. I was actually much more impressed with it than I was expecting. It was filled with quotes and example of his leadership. It was also the sight of his assassination. They showed his home and how he lived, along with all the different political activities he was involved in. What a great man.

I will see more of Delhi next time...

Agra

I had to leave Varasani at some point, though I could have stayed longer. I boarded a train and headed for Agra.

Anyway, I boarded the train, only to find that I had been put in a part of the train with all the tourists. The ride wasn't too bad, I got some sleep, sat and talked a little bit, and then we arrived in Agra. You could see the Taj Mahal almost immediately. I shared a tuk tuk with another guy to the guesthouse. We arrived and after checking in, I checked out the rooftop view. It was AMAZING! The Taj Mahal looks exactly like in the pictures! I was feeling pretty tired and weak, left over from being sick. I fell asleep and basically slept the whole day. At night, I went to the top of the guesthouse to eat and look at the view again. It was pretty cloudy out, but still as the sky changed colors from the slow descent of the sun, so did the Taj. It turned shades of blue and then shades of purple. Even in the darkness of night the Taj can be seen pretty clearly. I vowed not to sleep the following day and go see the Taj up close.

In the morning, I woke up still feeling pretty weak but knowing that I wanted to leave Agra the following day. I rustled myself out of bed, took a cold shower (feels wonderful in the heat of the Monsoon season), and headed out to see this magnificent building. I'm not one to be particularly impressed by architecture, but the Taj Mahal is an exception. And to think about the man-power and labor that went into constructing this building is insane. You walk through the entrance and you are immediately inside a post card. You know the one, with the water leading up to the Taj. People are taking all sorts of fun pictures. This is unfortunately the only point that I got a picture of myself with the Taj because my batteries died before I left. I walked down the steps and found my way to the entrance of the actual building, after taking off my shoes, of course. The marble and intricately inlaid stones into beautiful flower designs are seriously impressive. I walked around and looked at everything, but in light of my utter exhaustion, I felt like I couldn't appreciate it the way I wanted to. I walked towards the exit and was happy to see people sitting and laying down in the shade of the Taj, enjoying the cool marble. I joined the crowds and passed out in my little corner. Once I got up, I was feeling a bit better and decided to go through the Taj again. I took my time looking at the flower designs and beautiful Arabic in the marble. I then walked out and into part of the gardens in front of the Taj. This is when I found myself looking back to make sure this majestic building was really there. It had a strange translucence to me. As if it could be a mirage in the dehydrated mind of a human in the desert. I sat on a bench and just enjoyed the scenery filled with interested Indians and foreigners admiring the Taj and the beautiful trees, plants, and tiny squirrels. I allowed some Indians to take pictures with me, wrote in my journal, people-watched, watched people watching me, and admired the beauty of the three great buildings in sight. Once I got up, I wandered around the Mosque and the 'other' building (built for symmetry), looked around the not as impressive museum, and wandered along the wall of Indian sights to see. Eventually, I was hesitant to leave, but it was time for me to head back for a skype meeting.

The next day, I left Agra. There's not a whole lot in Agra, but there is ruins of an ancient town not too far out the city and also the Agra Fort that people visit. I wouldn't have minded seeing these things, but wasn't set on them either. I decided to concern my energy and hop on a train to Delhi, where I could rest a bit and get ready to head to Dharamsala.

Once again, I bought the lowest class ticket and bumped it up once the train came. Part of me almost feels guilty for doing this, like I should just ride in the lowest class.... I will at some point of my trip, when I don't have a giant bag. The lower class tickets are standing room only, and you know those pictures you see of people in India stuffed into and hanging out of buses? Well, it's like that, but in a train and VERY hot! It almost reminds me of some pictures from the holocaust of people stuffed in trains, but there are windows and these people are free to get on and off as they please.

I am in Delhi now and will see some of the cool things here, but so far have just been resting up.

The Burning Ghat

Varanasi:

According to the Lonely Planet India, otherwise known as "my bible", Varanasi is one of the oldest consistently inhabited cities in the world. It has been knocked down and rebuilt a few times, but it continues to exist. If I remember correctly, the ancient name of Varanasi is Kashi... google it.

I arrived to Varanasi so proud of myself that I had gotten on the right train and gotten off at the right stop all by myself. I was immediately shuffled into an auto-rickshaw by a guy trying to convince me to stay at a guesthouse of his friend. I emphatically declined and was convinced to stay at the guesthouse that works with the Brown Bread Bakery, a German organization who engages in development work and receives a percentage of the guesthouse bill for the Live for Life (something like that) foundation. The rickshaw-wallah (man) drops me off in front of an alley telling me at 5am that I need to wander down these alleys to find the right place. After some hesitation, I pay the man and head down the alleys. Within 10 minutes, I feel a bucket of presumably dirty water being dumped on my head. I was pissed! I look up see someone's linens out to dry and I assume that's where the water came from. On purpose or a thoughtless mistake, I don't really care. Luckily, I'm already filthy from the travel and the hot muggy weather. I continue down this maze of back alleys and tiny streets littered with sleeping people, and ask a few people along the way where this bakery is. Most aren't so sure. A very short man in a surong is trying to convince me to follow him, saying their are 3 guesthouses when I run into Spanish guys looking for the same bakery. I tell them that I'm a little uncomfortable and am gonna stick with them, only to have them wish me well on my way. (in my head at this moment: F this city, I'm gonna see the burning places and get the heck out of here!) I follow the short man and eventually the Spanish guys show up again headed to the same guesthouse I am and invite me to join them in checking that one out. We head in, I check out a few rooms and pick one. I shower and sleep.

When I wake up, I'm feeling a bit groggy and read the Varanasi chapter in the Lonely Planet. I basically just wander out of the guesthouse to start figuring out where the heck I am. I am immediately shuffled into a massive crowd of people heading towards the fires. Dead bodies burning. I get skiddish and convince this 'guide man' that I'd rather watch from afar, with respect to the families, and secretly for my own comfort. I finally rid myself of this mans unwanted company and start heading back to my guesthouse in an effort to make sure I remembered where it was. Before I get there, another guy starts talking to me. I start to brush him off when he starts saying, "that's the problem with you tourists. You want to come see the sights, but you don't want to learn. Why did you come to India?" I eventually let this guy talk me into sitting for a cup of chai (tea) and I'm glad I did. This guy was actually really cool. I met a few of his friends and spent the next few days hangin around the city with them.

On my first day there, I attended a Shivah ceremony filled with smoke, loud drums, incense, an old holy man with grey dreads, and the loud chimming of the thick bronze bells. We were in a circle in the small Shivah temple. Outside the window was a few other foreigners sitting and listening to a man explain to them about the burning ghat. Past them was the ritual burning of bodies.

Here's what I learned:

The bodies must be burned within 24 hours of death. The family pays for the wood, which is relatively cheap, and the bodies take about 4 hours to burn. The family stays in the area while the body is burning and take the time to wash in the Ganga (Ganges). On women, the hips are the last thing to complete burning and on men, it is their chest. This is because the chest is most strong in men from hard work and the hips are most strong in women from child birth. After the burning of the body, the family returns to someone's home for a small ceremony. The women do not attend the burning because one time a women jumped in the fire. Also, nobody cries. Tears are believed to taint the burning in some way (i forget exactly). The bodies are burned to get rid of the person's sins before they are returned to where they came from, the Ganga. There are 4 types of bodies that are not burned because they are already pure: a pregnant women, a child, a person with lepracy, a Brahmin, or a holy man. These bodies are brought on the same stretchers as the burning bodies but are wrapped in a light cloth. They are then tied to a large cement slab and some of the family takes the body on a boat to the middle of the river, where the body is ceremoniously dropped into the water. Sometimes, the bodies come undone from the cement and this is when you see bodies floating down the river. The Ganga is seen as the holy Mother for people all over India. The people who have the job of actually burning the bodies are of a lower class. They gather the ashes and empty them into the Ganga, also sifting for gold. If bones are found not fully cremated, they are taken on a boat and dropped in the middle of the Ganga. Also, every evening there is a ceremony performed by two Brahmins that is dedicated to the Ganga.

Spending time in Varasani, it is impossible not to see the procession of a family chanting a mantra, carrying the body of a loved-one on a bamboo-made stretcher. The body is cover with a bright, gold colored cloth. I think they burn at least a hundred bodies a day at the burning ghat, the main holy burning sight. There are many other places throughout India that are appropriate for burning, but this one has a special significance. It is inappropriate for people to take pictures of the burnings or of the procession of the dead bodies.

The city of Varanasi is a mix of tiny old streets, almost resembling those of parts of old Jerusalem. The streets are packed with people and lined with food, cotton clothing, and silk shops. There also cows and buffalo who add to this interesting little place. I loved sitting on the empty steps of an unused building, sipping chai and watching as the buffalo wade in the water. They dip there heads just slightly and seem to be in utter enjoyment as the cool water slides over their face. I didn't know until this trip that buffalo and cows could swim. This is the high season for the Ganga and it was interesting to see pictures of beach and parts of the city that are under water 3 months out of the year. Everything moves up, into the city as the water rises. A friend explained to me that normally, the burnings are much lower and they are separated by class. He said one thing he liked about this time of year is that all the burnings are done together, regardless of class. This is the young person's mind next to ancient tradition.

Closing note for this blog session

I'm now in Veranasi, where they burn the bodies at the Ganges. I seriously hated it the first hour I was here, but have grown to really like it a lot. I leave in 2 days for Agra to see the Taj Mahal.

I could write forever. Some things I would write about:

-All the crazy ideas and warnings about India have not been validated to me yet. I have had no harassment, have taken risks, and have met some really awesome and fun people.

-Food: it's not what we, Americans, think of when we think of Indian food.

-Diversity: India is INCREDIBLY diverse in land, people, and culture


Namaste

Is this your first time to India? (asked so much its almost like another saying)

I arrived in Bodhgaya at night time, not a clue where my guesthouse was. I started asking around and after heading down what seemed like a shady street, I headed to an internet cafe and the nice boys working there called the guesthouse. They explained it was down that street that I wasn't so comfortable with, but when I didn't seem happy about that they directed me to a closer guesthouse. I followed their instructions and what invited on the motorcycle of an Indian man. I am hesitant to get on Motorcycles and even more hesitant a motorcycle of a random man in the middle of the night. He saw this and rode slowly until we found another foreigner walking on the street who was headed to the same guesthouse. I went with her and we found our way, thanks to my handy headlamp. I checked in and retired for the night. The next day, I read the chapter in the lonely planet and set out for whatever was to come. I headed to the Bodhi tree and temple where Siddartha is said to have achieved enlightenment, becoming the buddha. On my way there, tons of people tried to sell me things, offered me a tuk tuk, and even to show my way to the tree. These two boys started walking with me. At first, I was somewhat annoyed, knowing I wasn't going to give them any money for a "tour". Then they talked about practicing their English and I remembered a good friend of mine in the Peace Corps who lived in a nearby town that had a major tourist sight for Mongolia. Her English students would hang around the monastery and practice their English with the tourists. I talked to them for a minute while I walked to the enterance of the temple and left them there. I entered and noticed the tourists from all over India and the world. There was a huge delegation of Sri Lankans engaged in a pilgrimage to this holy site. I sat at the tree for a while and appreciated all the worshipers. It didn't take long for one of my friends from outside to find me with his other friend. I sat and talked to them for a while and people would come up and for a photo with me. I agreed and my new friends explained that they were from other parts of India and had probably never seen a white person before. I spent the whole day walking and talking with my new friends, who ask people for money for their school, but they never did ask me for $. They explained to me how the felt about tourists. The state of Bihar is one of the poorest states in India and some of the scenery in the state is that you would find when looking at pictures of Africa. People just as dark as Africa, carrying things on their heads, colorful saris, working hard, and extreme poverty. Bodhgaya is filled with monasteries built in the cultural fashion of many different countries. I visited most of them in one day, and the last 2 another day. There is also a giant statue of the Buddha, which I found somewhat less impressive, but other people really enjoyed. It's neat to look at, but seems a little anti-buddha to me. Bodhgaya was a very interesting place, but I was sick and the mosquitos drove me absolutely insane.

Everything's Possible in India (an Indian saying) Sub Cuch Milega (in Hindi)

The way out of Darjeeling was an adventure. I was told there was a bus leaving from a nearby town, Siliguri, every half hour until 8pm. They lady even called to confirm. Apparently she didn't call the bus people because I arrived at 630 (already dark) and the last bus heading toward my next destination was sitting full, ready to head out. I tried and tried to talk my way into a seat on the bus and was sent back and forth in the night, talking to different people to figure out what to do. I finally accepted the fact that I was not getting on that bus and started asking about trains. Supposedly, there was a train leaving at 10pm from the nearby train station, but I couldn't confirm this until I went to the train station. Rickshaw and tuk tuk drivers tried to get me to pay 100 and 150 rupees to get to the train station. I held off and paid 20 in the end. I arrived at the train station and stepped over people selling vegetables in the street, through tuk tuks and tuk tuk drivers trying to get me to go places that I wasn't going, and over and through sleeping bodies who looked like they'd set up camp at the train station. My introduction to the train stations in India. Now I know, tons of people sleep in the train stations. And it actually might be one of the safer places to sleep if I' m ever in a bind. I'm talking full families, camped out with cooking supplies and all. I waited in line and noticed the lines were filled with men. I shrugged at this and waited... until people started edging me to the front of the line. I had noticed the sign marked "ladies", but it didn't seem to lead to anything, so I'd kinda ignored it. I finally realized after people pushing me forward saying "ladies first" that women are allowed to go right in front, while the men wait patiently in line. I'll take it. I got to the front and explained that I wanted to go to Putna, which would lead me to a bus headed for Bodhgaya. She agreed but then explained that this counter is not for sleeper class, it is just for _____ class (i don't remember what it's called). At this point I was hot and tired and feeling a little frustrated, so I didn't pay much attention and just agreed, as long as I got on that train. A ticket in my hand, I was relieved. I stepped over sleeping bodies and through family and friendly dinners as I scoured the train station. I had a few hours to kill and wanted to become oriented before I joined the crowds sitting on the ground. I figured out what was where; the first class women's waiting room, the first class men's waiting room, platforms 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5, the signs that announce first in Hindi, then in English what trains are arriving and the status of the other trains. Finally, I realized I was about to embark on a 12 hour journey and when I saw people benched up on the train, looking pretty hot and uncomfortable, I probably wanted the sleeper class. EVERYTHING IS POSSIBLE IN INDIA. This is a saying that I have heard since the first moment I arrived in India. I found my way to a help desk and asked what I need to do to change my ticket to sleeper class. They sent me to another office. I never found that office, but when I found a different office and asked they said better that I get on the train sitting in the station now, waiting to part for my destination. This train I didn't know about. I had been told the next train wasn't for a few hours. I listened to the man and found my way to the train. I asked the men near the train how I change to sleeper class; one younger man lead me to about 4 other men one after another, and finally me onto the train into my new sleeper class seat. He didn't really ask for $, but I didn't want any problems later, so I asked how much. I paid 100 rupees and asked if he needed to write something on my ticket. Behind him, an older man said not to worry about it and that he'd be sleeping in the seat next to me and if there was a problem he'd take care of it. (how nice of him) Throughout the ride, this man treated me with the Indian hospitality that I have learned about, buying me tea and treats on the train, interested in my India and English books, and watching my bag as I watched his when headed for the bathroom. At the beginning I was weary of him, but it didn't take long to realize he was just a nice man. In the end, I ended up giving him one of my books as a thank you for making sure I was alright and that I got off at the right stop. Lesson of the train system: know the name of the train station, not just the city where I'm going. I got off the train and took a rickshaw through the crazy streets of Putna to where I could catch a bus to Bodhgaya. I arrived in one piece :)

Darjeeling

After Assam, I headed for Darjeeling. This was my first "traveling" experience in India, where I had to figure everything out on my own. I boarded the correct plane, arrived safely, and took an airport cab up to Darjeeling. Darjeeling, known for it's tea, is a small town on the side of a hill. It is literally sprawled on the side of the hill/mountain, no flattening anything. The ride up is not for the weak at heart, as is no ride or transportation in India. But the ride was absolutely breathtaking and we proceeded up the windy road passing through beautiful, lush, tropical scenery with waterfalls, and the higher we went the more exposed the view of the valley became. It was on and off raining and it felt like we were climbing into the clouds. The one lane road was filled with two-way traffic and thoughts of slipping down off the road were blocked from my mind, which was filled with the impressive landscape. Upon arrival, I was dropped off at the taxi area. I had picked a guesthouse out of my "bible", the lonely planet, and basically just asked around. Everyone was super friendly, and the police handed my a not-s0-legible map of Darjeeling. I hiked up and around the road in the light mist and found my guesthouse without trouble, other than my lungs' acknowledgement of the altitude. I arrived in the guesthouse, checked into my tiny, but quaint and very inexpensive room. I headed to the restaurant on the top of the guesthouse, had some tea and food and retired for the night. In the morning, I scanned the Darjeeling chapter in the lonely planet and decided some of the sights that I might want to see. I'm not too good at finding things, and I didn't want to walk around with my giant lonely planet in my hand, so I basically just started walking. I noticed the tibetan influence of this city right away and found a certain comfort in the familiarity of Mongolia. I was walking around with no direction and decided I'd start with seeing a monastery. I had no idea that Darjeeling is filled with Monasteries. I just asked a guy on the street where's the nearest monastery, and followed the school children down a narrow path until I eventually found one. It was closed. I walked around and noticed the 2 other foreigners taking pictures. They left. There was a monk making prayers in the 2nd floor of the monastery. I looked up, trying to figure out where it was coming from, and found the monk looking out the window at me. He invited me up. I found my way up the stairs and entered his tiny room, sans the shoes. I sat in silence as I watched and listened to his prayers, mantra, and drums. It again reminded me of Mongolia. Some of the men in the Monastery even kind of looked Mongolian. Monks would peer into the room, I assumed from seeing the foreigners shoes outside. They'd smile and disappear. When the meditation was over, I thanked the monk, who didnt speak any English and got lost finding my way back up towards where I was staying. I loved my short time in Darjeeling, but I'd heard its a lot like Nepal and it reminded me a lot of Mongolia. I planned to head out and my last day, I made some tourist friends and directed them to the tibetan refugee center, which I'd hiked to the day before. Me and one other guy headed for the zoo. The zoo had some interesting animals, but I'm not the hugest fan of animals in cages. What was cool was the Everest mountaineering museum. I am absolutely impressed by the people who climb Everest and the museum helped me gain an understanding of the Himalayas, which in a better time of year are viewable from my guesthouse. I hope to do some hiking around the base of some of these impressive mountains.

Full Power 24 hours! (an Indian saying)

INDIA!!! (i'm going to do my best for a full update before my internet time is up) p.s... the shift button doesn't work, so forgive me for lack of capitalization.

After having a blast in Michigan and New York, I set out for INDIA. I used to talk about traveling India, but there was a part of me that wasn't sure when/if I'd ever make it.

1st 24 hours in India:
While in NY, I had a arranged to meet a friend of a friend in New Delhi, India. That is the only 'plan' that I had at that point. When I arrived to India (around 7pm), I had the cab driver call this friend and we found my way to the flooded garden that led to this friend's apartments. That night, I decided to join him to his family's house in the northeastern state of Assam. He was leaving in the morning, so I bought my ticket online and hoped for the best. In the morning, as we were getting ready to head to the airport, his maid (for lack of a better word) came, cleaned the dishes, set out toast, and did whatever else she does. This was my first interaction with the 'help' of India. Turns out, it was just a taste into what I was about to dive into. We headed to the airport and all I could think about was my friend, Karishma, in the states who is deathly afraid to fly ever since she nose-dived in an airplane in a local flight in India. We didn't nose-dive :) Upon arrival, I met Nalin's mom and driver. We drove through the streets of Guwahati through lush green, tropical landscapes, to one of the most beautiful homes I've seen in a while. I could tell they were quite well-off as the gate man opened the gate, unleashing the tropical paradise that serves as their yard. They have beautiful flowers, exotic trees, a small lake, and a nice porch to enjoy the scenery. The dog took a liking to me, and I didn't enjoy his slobber. The next few hours were filled with lots of friendly conversation and good food with Nalin's family. This was my introduction to the four approximately 15 year olds cooking and cleaning for this family. They live there and work very hard. I took a liking to a few of the girls, but they were pretty shy around me. It took me some getting used to, but I knew I had to learn how things work here. Later, I found out that the girls are able to buy land and houses for their families, and don't necessarily speak Hindi. They speak a mixture of Hindi and some native dialect. I don't know what part of India these girls were from. After 2 years of studying human trafficking and child labor, I found myself conflicted, not sure how to act or what to think. So, I thought nothing, and just observed. This is a new country with a new way of life. Nalin's family are the nicest and most friendly, hospitable and welcoming people ever! They fully welcomed me into their home, gave me a room and his mom took it upon herself to make sure that I had lots of cultural learning experiences; something I am so grateful for. Their family owns a tea farm... or tea company... or something like that. They ship tea off to be mixed and packaged and sold. The business obviously serves them well. I attended the 2nd day of a wedding, which consisted of a colorful assortment of Indian food and Indian versions of other food. I tried a little bit of almost everything. Nalin's mom and her friends were so friendly and made sure that I was able to experience. And I was surprised by how agreeable they were to the fact that I was traveling India without a plan. At the wedding, I was impressed with all the beautiful saris and bracelets that decorated the women.
We left the wedding and headed back home, where I met up with Nalin. We went out and met with some of his friends, went to a small club with a live band, rather weak drinks, beer, lots of fun dancing people. While in Assam, I was definitely the only foreigner around, but people's English and knowledge of America was so good that sometimes I forgot. After the club, we went back to the house and went to sleep. I woke up in the morning and was laying on my bed, when Nalin's mom came in and said their was a massage lady at the house and asked if I wanted a massage. I hesitated, asked how much, waved me off, and I agreed. I had a massage in one of the rooms of the house for about an hour and a half. I think the rest of the days in Assam were mostly filled with food, relaxation, and getting over my jetlag. One of the days, they had the driver take me to a bunch of the famous temples which are in the area and another day they made sure I tried traditional Assamese food. I was so greatful for their amazing generosity and hospitality. I have been keeping in touch with Nalin and will meet up with him in Delhi at some point. Also, I invited him to meet me when I get to a surfing spot and promised to teach him to surf.